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The evolution of free climbing

Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.

Maurizio Oviglia

December 2012

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Christian Core climbing Gioia, 8c boulder, Antro dei druidi, Potala di Varazze (Italy)

Roberto Armando

About a year ago Claude Remy told me he had repeated a route established by Paul-Henri Girardin, first ascended in 1954, which had an absolutely obligatory 6b move. Deeply impressed by this and moved by Paul's death in 2010, Claude decided to write an article about this Swiss this free-climbing pioneer. Whilst doing this he could not help but wonder if Paul's achievement had been important on a global scale or limited only to his country. It is probably from here that the crazy idea came about to create a chronological list of achievements grade by grade, limiting it to free climbing as we know it today. A list which, to our knowledge, no one had ever tried to make or, at least, put down on paper. We can easily imagine why... some of the reasons are mentioned in Claude's introduction below.

The history of free climbing is something we tend to consider as "young" and perhaps partly because of this not yet analysed. Claude, with his meticulous month-long search (after all, he is Swiss), not only shows us that free climbing came into being many years ago, at the start 20th century even, and also that many of our convictions about the chronology of events are fundamentally flawed. For example, was the seventh grade really climbed in 1978, the year the UIAA scale was recognised, or much earlier? And if it was climbed earlier, who was the first to do so? Obviously Claude has taken into account the thousands of objections that can be made with a list of this sort... One worth bearing in mind: we all fully understand the concept of free climbing in accordance to modern standards (repoint), but we also know that in the past things were somewhat different... Having said that, why shouldn't we consider as "free climbing" a several meter high section, unprotectable, climbed by the early pioneers? What should we do in cases like these? And before the end of the seventies, when the redpoint ethic came into being, were there already climbers who climbed without using or resting on pro? So what can one consider as the start of free climbing?

I helped Claude a little to make his list and I also played the devil's advocate, asking him some questions related in particular to a list of multi-pitch routes he was working on at the same time. He however replied with his usual irony:

"... I know full well that it is very difficult, if not impossible, to make a list of free climbing in the Alps! It wouldn't dare think that it's possible to, using the current rules, it's possible to make a comparison of various different eras. It's true that it seems impossible... but you can always give it a go! I've done this above all because of my love for climbing and because I hope this list will provide some clarity, help us understand our history and above all prevent us from forgetting our predecessors. These climbed many routes which were very exposed, but they too had their human limits, and when these were reached the waltz of placing pegs began or, as an alternative, along came fatal falls. I believe it's a good thing to publish these chronological lists, even those that include climbing in the Alps, despite the fact that they exclude Greats you mentioned such as Comici, Carlesso, Vinatzer, Messner. Closer inspection at the history of climbing in the Alps reveals that there is a pretty long, confused period if one wants to determine "the hardest route or the best climber." Also because every region, every country, tends to exaggerate the quality of their respective heroes. I say all this simply to underline the fact I've only mentioned those who I'm certain of, seeing from a current perspective. It's very difficult to make comparisons between the Greats you mentioned. To do so one would need to do what I did on certain historical routes in many regions in Switzerland, namely repeat them one after the other, with the same gear and find out what out what the first ascentionists used. Only like this can a list be made. It's possible, but there's a whole lot of routes that would need repeating! I have to say that sometimes in life we need to do silly things... at the end of the day I don't think this list is silly, but I'm sure that many will think it is, but that's their tough luck!"

So I see the list of Claude as a beginning, a promising start, an attempt to write a history that has not yet been written, with many obscure points. Some things have probably been forgotten, mistakes made, others will cause bewilderment. But it provides a basis for discussion. The aim is not to establish "the best climber in the world" as Bernard Amy said. Rather, one hopes to give credit to those who, at times forgotten about, have shown the way for thousands of climbers today.

Maurizio Oviglia

THE EVOLUTION OF FREE CLIMBING by Claude Remy

While it may seem difficult to collect information in order to create a chronology of free climbing, it is even more difficult to establish a list which takes into account all the different climbing styles, the gear, the various different grade scales... seeing that these factors change depending on the era and countries they come from. How, for example, can one compare the pioneers who used heavy and unreliable gear with modern-day climbers with their sleek climbing shoes and bomb-proof gear? And how can different performances be rated; a short, well-protected climb achieved after various attempts compared to a committing mountain route climbed on-sight? And what about integral solo ascents... Despite all these doubts, here are some dates, names and facts published according to two criteria: boulder problems and pure difficulty. Please note that some achievements could get stray away from this narrow context and embrace different styles, maybe pure alpine climbs. In addition, other details are included: solo (climbing without a rope); on-sight (OS); expo which indicates runout gear; obl. stands for obligatory; Female = F; not confirmed or unrepeated = NC.

Climbing grades are not an exact science; in addition some achievements haven't yet been confirmed and the difficulty of more than one of these routes has changed over the years due to broken (or modified) holds. This list, which adheres to the French grading scale, is therefore an initial proposal which needs integrating with bouldering traverses trad routes, and hybrid climbs (which begin with a boulder and continue with a rope).

BOULDERING
YEAR	GRADE	CLIMBER	BOULDER PROBLEM
1914	4B	Jacques de Lépiney	La Presta, Fontainebleau, France
1934	5C	Pierre Allain	L’Angle Allain, Fontainebleau, France
1946	6A	René Ferlet	La Marie Rose, Fontainebleau, France
1950	6B	Paul Jouy	La Stalingrade, Fontainebleau, France
	6C/6C+	Paul Jouy	Le Carre d’As, Fontainebleau, France
1953	7A	Robert Paragot	La Joker, Fontainebleau, France
1958	7B	John Gill	Gill Right Problem, Tetons, Wyoming, USA
1959	7C	John Gill	Red Cross overhang, Tetons, Wyoming, USA
1960	7A/+	Michel Libert	L'Abattoir, Fontainebleau, France
1975	8A	Jim Holloway	Trice (AHR), Flagstaff Mountains, Colorado, USA
1977	8A+	Jim Holloway	Slapshot, Dinosaur Mountain, Boulder, Colorado, USA
1978	7B+	John Bachar, Ron Kauk	Midnight Lightning, Camp 4, Yosemite, USA
	7C+	John Gill	The Groove, Colorado, USA
1979	7C	John Long	Speed of Light Dyno, Black Mountains, USA
1983	7C	Pierre Richard	L’Abbé Resina, Fontainebleau, France
1984	8A	Jacky Godoffe	C’était Demain, Fontainebleau, France
1987	8A+	Ron Fawcett	Careless Torque, Peak Districk, GB
	8A+	Jacky Godoffe	Partenaire particulier, Fontainebleau, France
1988	8A+	Alain Ghersen	L’à plat du gain, Fontainebleau, France
	8A+	Jerry Moffat	Superman, Cressbrook, GB
1989	8B	Jacky Godoffe	Le mouvement perpetuel, Fontainebleau, France
1992	8B	Fred Nicole	La danse des balrogs, Branson, Valais, Switzerland
	8B	Philippe le Denmatt	Enigma, Fontainebleau, France
1993	8B	Jacky Godoffe	Fatman, Fontainebleau, France.
	8B	Jerry Moffat	The Dominator, Yosemite, USA
1996	8B+	Fred Nicole	Radja, Branson, Valais, Switzerland
1998	7B+, F	Lynn Hill	Midnight lightning, Camp 4, Yosemite, USA
1999	8A, F	Catherine Miquel	Duel, Fontainebleau, France
2000	8C	Fred Nicole	Dreamtime, Cresciano, Switzerland (presa rotta: 8B+)
	8B+	Fred Nicole	Oliphant's Dawn, Rocklands, South Africa
2002	8C	Fred Nicole	Monkey wedding, Rockland, Sud Africa
	8C	Fred Nicole	Black Eagle, Rockland, Sud Africa
	8B+, F	Josune Bereziartu	La traversia De Balzola, Baltoza, Spain
	8C	Bernd Zangerl	Viva l'evolution, Tyrol, Austria
2003	8C, F	Josune Bereziartu	E la nave va, Lindental, Switzerland
2004	8C+	Mauro Calibani	Tonino 78, Meschia, Italy
	8C	Fred Nicole	Le poinçonneur des lilas, Jura Bâlois, Switzerland
2005	8C	Fred Nicole	Terremer, Hueco Tanks, USA
2008	8C+	Christian Core	Gioia, Varazze, Italy

These are followed by other 8C+ basically all by Fred Nicole, Dai Koyamada, Christian Core, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham....

DIFFICULTY
YEAR	GRADE	CLIMBER	ROUTE
1918	6a expo	Emanuel Strubisch	Wilder Kopf- Westkante / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1930	6a+ expo	Frank Elliot, Harry Dovere Gilbert Ellis	Wall End Slab Direct at Stanage, Peak District, GB
1936	6b/6b+ expo	Willi Hänztschel	Schrammtorwächter nord, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1949	6c expo	Peter Harding	Demon Rib, Black Rocks, Peak District, GB
1952	6c expo	Wulf Scheffler	Schwager-Talseite / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1958	7a solo OS	Don Whillans	Goliath, Burbage, Peak District, GB
1960	6c solo	John Gill	Final Exam, Castle Rock, Colorado, USA
1961	7b+ solo	John Gill	Thimble, Needle, Dakota, USA (12m high)
1970	7a	John Stannard	Foops, Gunks, USA
1972	7b	John Bragg	Kansas City, Gunks, USA
		Alan Manson	Invents the Figure of 4 (Yaniro)on the University of Leeds climbing wall
1973	6c solo OS	Jim Erickson	Cassandre, USA (new route integral solo)
1974	7c	Steve Wunsch	Supercrack, Gunks, USA
1977	8a	Peter Cleveland	Phlogiston, Devil's Lake, USA
	7b, F	Lynn Hill	Shawangunk Ridge, Gunks, USA
1979	7c, F	Lynn Hill	Ophir Broke, Telluride, Colorado, USA
	8a	Tony Yaniro	Grand Illusion, Sugar Loaf, California, USA
	7b+ expo	Bernd Arnold	Direkte Superlative, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1980	7b+ OS	Patrick Edlinger	La polka des ringards, Buoux, France
	7b+ OS	Patrick Edlinger	Parties carrées, Buoux, France
1981	7c+ expo	Maurizio Zanolla (Manolo)	Il mattino dei maghi, Totoga, Dolomiti, Italy
1983	8a+	Jerry Moffat	The Face, Altmühltal, Germany
1984	8b	Wolfgang Güllich	Kanal im Rücken, Altmühltal, Germany
	8b	Martin Scheel	Vuelo a ciegas direct, Montserrat, Spain
	7c+ OS	Jerry Moffat	in USA e in Europa, citiamo Pol Pot, Verdon, France
	7c+, F	Lynn Hill	Vandals, Gunks, USA
1985	8b+	Wolfgang Güllich	Punks in the gym, Mount Arapiles, Australia
	8a solo	Antoine Le Menestrel	Revelations, Raven Tor, GB
1986	8b+/c	Antoine Le Menestrel	Ravage, Chuenisberg, Jura, Switzerland
	8b+	Antoine Le Menestrel	La rage de vivre, Buoux, France
	8b+	Antoine Le Menestrel	La minimum, Buoux, France
	7c solo	Wolfgang Güllich	Weed Killer, Raven Tor, GB
	8a, F	Luisa Iovane	Come back, Valle San Nicolò, Italy
1987	8c	Wolfgang Güllich	Wallstreet, Krottenseer Turm, Frankenjura, Germany
	8a+ solo	Jean-Christophe Lafaille	Rêve de gosse, Les Arnauds, France
	8a, F	Christine Gambert + Lynn Hill	Rêve de papillon, Buoux, France
	8a OS	Antoine Le Menestrel	Samizdat, Cimaï, France
	7b, F OS	Lynn Hill	plusieurs aux USA
1988	8a+, F	Catherine Destivelle	Choucas, Buoux, France
	8b, F	Isabelle Patissier	Sortilèges, Cimaï, France
	8c	Fred Nicole	Anaïs et le canabis, St-Loup, Switzerland
1990	8c+	Ben Moon	Hubble, Raven Tor, GB
	8c/+	Jerry Moffat	Liquid Ambar, Lower Pen Trwyn, Galles, GB
	8b+, F	Lynn Hill	Masse critique, Cimaï, France
1991	9a	Wolfgang Güllich	Action Directe, Frankenjura, Germany
	8b solo	Alain Robert	Compilation, Omblèze, France
1992	8a, F OS	Lynn Hill	Simon, Frankenjura, Germany
	9a	Alex Huber	Om, Triangel, Endstal, Germany (9a+)
1993	9a	Fred Nicole	Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland
	9a	Fred Rouhling	Hugh, Les Eaux Claires, France
	8b OS	Elie Chevieux	Les liaisons dangereuses, Calanques, France
1994	9a	Alex Huber	Weisse Rose, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
	8a/+, F OS	Lynn Hill	Overdose, Lourmarin, France
1995	9b	Fred Rouhling	Akira, Grotte de Vilhonneur, Les Eaux Claires, France (NC)
	8b+ OS	Elie Chevieux	Massey Fergusson, Calanques, France
1996	9a+	Alex Huber	Open Air, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
	9a+	Neil Carson	The big bang, Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales, GB
	8b+ OS	Elie Chevieux	Maldita Maria, Cuenca, Spain
1997	9a/+	Fred Nicole	Elfe, Grimsel, Switzerland.
1998	8c, F	Josune Bereziartu	Honky Tonky, Onate, Spain.
	9a+	Bernabé Fernandez	Orujo, Malaga, Spain (une prise visée, NC)
1999	8b, F OS	Katie Brown	Omaha Beach, Red River Gorge, USA
2000	8c+, F	Josune Bereziartu	Honky Mix, Onate, Spain
	8a+, F OS	Josune Bereziartu	Bon viatge, Terradets, Spain
	9a+	Eric Talmadge	Im Reich des Shogun, Tüfleten, Switzerland
2001	9a+	Chris Sharma	Realization, Céüse, France
2002	9a, F	Josune Bereziartu	Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland
	9a/+	Fred Nicole	La chimère L2, St-Loup, Switzerland
2003	8b solo	Alex Huber	Opportunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
	8b+ solo	Alex Huber	Kommunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
	9b	Bernabé Fernandez	Chilam Balam, Archidona (80m)
	9a+	Ramon Puigblanque	La Rambla Ext, Siurana, Spain
2004	8b, F OS	Josune Bereziartu	Steroid performance, Hourai, Giappone
	8c OS	Yuji Hirayama	White Zombie, Baltzola Spain
	9a/+	François Nicole	Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland
2005	9a/+, F	Josune Bereziartu	Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland
	9a+	Dave Graham	Coup de grâce, Sonlerto, Switzerland
2006	8b+, F OS	Josune Bereziartu	Hydrofobia, Montsant, Spain
2007	8c+ OS	Patxi Usobiaga	Bizi Euskaraz, Etxauri, Spain
2008	9b	Chris Sharma	Jumbo love, Clark Mountain, USA (75m)
	9b	Chris Sharma	Golpe de estado, Siurana, Spain
	9b	Dani Andrada	Delincuente natural, Rodellar, Spain
2009	9b	Chris Sharma	Neanderthal, Santa Linya, Spain
2010	8c, F OS	Charlotte Durif	Les rois du pétrole, Pic St-Loup, France
2011	9b	Adam Ondra	La Capella, Siurana, Spain
	9b	Adam Ondra	Chaxi Raxi, Oliana, Spain
	9b	Adam Ondra	La planta de shiva, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain
	9b	Chris Sharma	First round First minute, Margalef, Spain
2012	9b+	Adam Ondra	The Change, Flatanger, Norway

Tahnks to:
Josune Bereziartu, Stephan Denys, Nicolas Favresse, Lynn Hill, Andreas Kubin, Fred Labreveux, Bernard Newman, François e Fred Nicole, Rikardo Ortegui, Maurizio Oviglia, Maurizio Zanolla.

Claude Remy, CH-1864 Vers-l'Eglise, Switzerland, 024 492 26 73.

Alexander Huber - Alexander Huber in 1992 on the crux of Om 9a, Triangel, Austria.

Chris Sharma - Chris Sharma during the first ascent of Pachamama 9a+ at Oliana, Spain.

Arco Rock Legends - Luisa Iovane & Lynn Hill

Jerry Moffatt - Jerry Moffatt making the first ascent of Liquid Ambar (F8c/+) at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales in 1990. Liquid Ambar is dedicated to the memory of Jerry’s younger brother, Toby.

Adam Ondra - Adam Ondra on Terranova, 8C+

Fred Nicole - Fred Nicole making the first ascent of Oliphants Dawn 8B+, Rockland, South Africa in 2000

Bernd Zangerl - Bernd Zangerl on Anam Cara, Silvretta

Josune Bereziartu - Josune Bereziartu climbing Powerade 8c+, Vadiello

Patrick Edlinger - Patrick Edlinger competing at Sportroccia '85, Bardonecchia

Jerry Moffatt - Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon committed to training in Jerry’s cellar in Sheffield.

Fred Rouhling - Salamandre, Saint-Pierre en Faucigny. www.fredmoix.com

Adam Ondra - Adam Ondra and Bernabè Fernandez

Ramon Julian Puigblanque - Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Rock Master 2009

The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2012 - Yuji Hirayama

Charlotte Durif - Charlotte Durif from France making the first ascents of Pull Over 8c+ at the Grotte de Galetas, Verdon, France

Lleida, Spain - Dani Andrada on 'Analógica' (9a/9a+) at Santa Linya

Manolo and Roby Present - Manolo climbing Roby Present 8c+/9a, Val Noana, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites

See all photos

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