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Lucie Hrozová slays Saphira M15- at Vail in Colorado
18/02/2016 - Alpinism
Lucie Hrozová slays Saphira M15- at Vail in Colorado
On 31 January 2016 Lucie Hrozová made the first ascent of Saphira, a mixed climb graded M15- at the The Fang Amphitheater in Vail, Colorado, USA.
Angelika Rainer flashes Next Level D13 at Usine in France
09/02/2016 - Alpinism
Angelika Rainer flashes Next Level D13 at Usine in France
Italian ice climber Angelika Rainer has flashed "Next Level", a drytooling route graded D13 located at Usine in France.
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
05/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard has freed A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World, Dolomites. If the D15 grade is confirmed, this climb weighs in as the hardest drytooling route in the world.
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
18/01/2016 - Alpinism
La storia infinita on Agner, first repeat and winter ascent in the Dolomites by Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth
From 29 to 30 December 2015 the alpinists Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth carried out the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of La storia infinita, the route established in 1990 up the NE Face of Mt. Agner (Dolomites) by...
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin
On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.
Oh how I enjoy these things: alpinism that borders between reason and passion
09/12/2015 - Alpinism
Oh how I enjoy these things: alpinism that borders between reason and passion
On the climb Antonello Cardinale up Monte Disgrazia together with Ivo Ferrari: alpinism carefully balanced between reason and passion.
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
26/10/2015 - Alpinism
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
On 25/09/2015 the Russian mountaineers Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dozhdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko completed the first ascent of Thulagi Chuli (7059m) a hitherto unclimbed peak in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new route up the West Face is called Happy...
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
23/07/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre and the 1985 first winter ascent
It's currently winter in Patagonia. Exactly 30 years ago, in July 1985, the Italians Paolo Caruso, Maurizio Giarolli, Andrea Sarchi and Ermanno Salvaterra carried out the historic first winter ascent of Cerro Torre via the 'Compressor route' established by Cesare...
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr claim unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska
01/06/2015 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr claim unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska
On 17/05/2015 Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska via their North Face route Sugar Man (M7, 85°, A1, 750m).
A Dolomite DOC climb reinterpreted in winter
17/03/2015 - Alpinism
A Dolomite DOC climb reinterpreted in winter
Francesco Salvaterra reports about the winter ascent, carried out together with Marcello Cominetti, of Hrushka up the East Face of Mur de Pisciadù, Sella, Dolomites, Italy.
Amore e ombra, Adam Holzknecht and Alex Walpoth climb new mixed route in Vallunga
24/02/2015 - Alpinism
Amore e ombra, Adam Holzknecht and Alex Walpoth climb new mixed route in Vallunga
On Col Turont, Vallunga / Langental, Dolomites, Adam Holzknecht and Alex Walpoth have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Amore e Ombra (160m, M9, VIII, WI5).
Tom Ballard: Matterhorn North Face in winter via the Schmidt route
13/02/2015 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard: Matterhorn North Face in winter via the Schmidt route
On 10 February 2015 British alpinist Tom Ballard climbed the Schmidt route up the North Face of the Matterhorn in 2 hours and 59 minutes. After Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and Pizzo Badile, this is another climb...
Due di picche, new mixed climb up Spallone del Becco in the Bergamasque Alps
11/02/2015 - Alpinism
Due di picche, new mixed climb up Spallone del Becco in the Bergamasque Alps
On 3/01/2015 Fulvio Zanetti and Francesco Beni made the first ascent of Due di picche (250mt, III, M5+, D7+) a new mixed route up the North Face of Spallone del Becco (Bergamasque Alps), Italy.
Massimo Piras and his timeless love for ice climbing
09/02/2015 - Alpinism
Massimo Piras and his timeless love for ice climbing
The portrait of Massimo Piras, 62-year-old Italian alpinist, instructor at the Scuola Gervasutti di Torino, Academic of the Italian Alpine Club with over 100 new ice climbs to his name during 35 year of continues ice climbing. By Edoardo Falletta.
Sappada abseil stations replaced on ice climbs
06/02/2015 - Alpinism
Sappada abseil stations replaced on ice climbs
At Sappada, Northern Italy, the local mountain guides have replaced the abseil belays of more than 50 ice falls. The report by Pierpaolo Pedrini
Monte Nero di Presanella according to Claudio Migliorini
22/12/2014 - Alpinism
Monte Nero di Presanella according to Claudio Migliorini
Claudio Migliorini talks about the first ascent of two mixed climbs on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella massif, Italy) carried out in 2013, Rolling Stones and Una via per te fatta in tre, as well as the first...