Due di picche, new mixed climb up Spallone del Becco in the Bergamasque Alps

During recent winters Spallone del Becco, and nearby Pizzo del Becco, in Italy's Bergamasque Alps have witnessed much winter activity. Existing routes were repeated and then new climbs were established using a modern approach. This renewed interest is due mainly to the peak's unique geological conformation: the excellent Verrucano rock is marked by deep chimneys full of clean-cut cracks. Snow gathers inside these cracks and, given the right conditions, quickly turns to ice to create an ideal playground for mixed climbing and dry tooling.

Due di Picche is the latest route to be first ascended here and is a trad protected route climbed by Francesco Beni and myself up the North Face of "Spallone del Becco". The route is circa 250m high and located between 2150m and 2400m. In comparison to the others winter routes, this latest addition is somewhat more demanding, in particular the first 3 pitches that follow a logical crack, both technical and physical. The first pitch is marked by precarious climbing, the second by the stamina needed to reach the belay. After these first two, almost completely rock pitches, the route continues up mixed terrain, past snow slopes and short rocky overlaps. As to the rock sections, one might be tempted to ask why these aren't climbed with hands instead of using ice axes? The answer is simple: thanks to the rock formation drytooling seems ideal, far better than climbing with hands only... and don't forget that you're up there in winter and wearing gloves is highly recommended!

Spallone del Becco short history
12/2011 Camino Muschioso, F. Zanetti - T. Arosio, III, WI 2 M5.
12/2011 Becche al Becco, F. Zanetti - V. Cividini, III, WI 2, M6.
01/2012 Becco Dry, F. Zanetti - V. Cividini - O. Fiori, III, Wi 2 M6+.
01/2012 Super Mario, V. Cividini - P. Grisa - G. Stefanetti, III, WI 2, M4.
01/2013 Chiudi il Becco, F. Zanetti - V. Cividini, III, M5, D7.
01/2015 2 di Picche, F. Zanetti - F. Beni, III, M5+, D7+.

Information and more detailed reports can be found in the guide book "Ghiaccio delle Orobie" by Valentino Cividini and Marco Romelli, ed. Versante Sud.

Fulvio and Francesco thank CAI Gandino, Cai di Alzano and Zamberlan for the tecnical support.