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Mur del Pisciadù, Dolomites icefall climbed by Baumgartner cousin

On Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites) Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgartner have climed Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, an icefall with difficulties up to V+/M6/WI6.

Planetmountain

January 2016

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Manuel Baumgartner and Martin Baumgärtner on 30/12/2015 during the probable first ascent of the Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall (V+/M6/WI6), Sella, Dolomites.

Manuel Baumgartner

On 30/12/2015 Manuel Baumgartner and his cousin Martin Baumgartner carried out what is likely to be the first ascent of an icefall located on Mur del Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites). The route starts circa 20m to the left of the famous Oro e Carbone and follows the first four pitches of Schwarze Wand (Heinz Steinkötter, Vitty Frismon 1967) to reach the drip at mid-height. While climbing Schwarze Wand , a summer route repeated rarely as it is often dripping wet, the two South Tyrollean alpinists added just one peg, and used the old belay bolts placed a long time ago by unknown climbers. Confirmation of the route’s beauty comes from the fact that since the end of December it has already seen three repeats.

MUR DEL PISCIADU' EISFALL by Manuel Baumgartner

For two years I’ve been plagued by the though of climbing this obvious drip on Mur del Pisciadù, and every time I was up at Passo Gardena in winter I immediately noticed it.

On 26 December I repeated the Luianta icefall at Kolfuschg and I couldn’t resist driving up and giving it a look.It was clear to me that it was in condition, despite having formed less than in previous years, but the rock was dry and it wasn’t too cold for free climbing. So I asked around for a motivated partner, and my cousin Martin was immediately on for it. On 30 December we drove to Passo Gardena and started the climb.

The route follows the first four pitches of Schwarze Wand Führe, a rarely repeated summer route established in 1967 by Heinz Steinkötter and Vitti Frismon. We used our ice axes right from the outset, climbing past M5 difficulties and old pegs that need to be treated with caution. Pitch 2 climbs slightly rightwards for 30m up perfect black rock. There are some old pegs on this pitch, too, but you can also place good gear. Pitch 3 is a mix of rock and ice, past V/M5 difficulties. The crux rock section is located on pitch 4, which follows a crack to reach a small roof: grade VI+ climbing leads to a small icy drip and then the belay. Pitch 5 leads left past easy rock below the hanging drip, before traversing back onto the ice. The short rock section is protected with threads and Friends, and it is at this point that we abandoned the Schwarze Wand Führe.

The icefall proper is a real delight, and the difficulties from start to finish are in the region of WI6. At the top of the drip we decided to baptise the route with a sip of red wine and enjoyed the lovely evening before making two abseils down the climb to reach the base.

The entire route offers varied climbing in a marvelous setting, but should not be underestimated by any means.

Manuel Baumgartner thanks his sponsor Edelrid

TOPO: Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall, Dolomites