The news

106
News in archive
Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia
11/11/2013 - Climbing
Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 'Marinaio di foresta' (190m, 6a+ max, 5c obbl.) a new climb established in October 2013 together with Cecilia Marchi and Giorgio Caddeo up the beautiful Pedra Longa, or Agugliastra, sea stack (Baunei, Sardinia).
Valle dell'Orco short climbs news: Sitting Bull and Dado
01/10/2013 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco short climbs news: Sitting Bull and Dado
The second news report from Italy's Orco Valley by Maurizio Oviglia: the crags Sitting Bull and Dado that offer a interesting mix of sport climbing, trad and aid.
Valle dell'Orco new rock climbs
24/09/2013 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco new rock climbs
Maurizio Oviglia and Massimiliano Celano introduce the new cliff Altrolato and its routes on the dark side of the Orco valley.
First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif
13/09/2013 - Alpinism
First repeat of Üç Muz in Turkey's Aladaglar massif
Turkish climbers Zorbey Aktuyun and Evren Kirazlı have carried out the the first repeat of Üç Muz (650m, 8a), the route first climbed in 2005 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan up the East Face of Demirkazik, Ala...
Kemaliye International Outdoor Sport Festival by Maurizio Oviglia
10/07/2013 - Climbing
Kemaliye International Outdoor Sport Festival by Maurizio Oviglia
The 35th International Outdoor Sport Festival took place from 28 June to 2 July in the small village of Kemaliye in Central-Eastern Turkey, on the banks of the beautiful limestone canyon formed by the river Euphrates.
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
13/06/2013 - Climbing
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
In praise of climbing and nature's beauty. This is Jeef, the route first ascended in 1992 by the French brothers François & Arnaud Petit on Punta U Corbu in Bavella (Corsica). A small masterpiece, examined by Maurizio Oviglia and Arnaud...
Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
10/06/2013 - Climbing
Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
On 31 May 2013, 33 years after its first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic route in southern Sardinia. Originally three pitches long, the route now offers six (plus two traverses) to reach the top of beautiful...
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established...
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
24/05/2013 - Climbing
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.
Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
06/05/2013 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
30 years after the first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia returns to "Anche gli eroi hanno paura - Even heroes feel fear" the route first ascended by Alessandro Cattaneo, Beppe Domenichelli, Mondo Liggi, Cecilia Marchi and Bruno Poddesuin in Sardinia's Sette Fratelli...
New trad climbs at Garibaldi in Sardinia
17/04/2013 - Climbing
New trad climbs at Garibaldi in Sardinia
Three new trad routes at the Garibaldi in south-east Sardinia, first ascended by Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia.
Sardinia's needles: two rock climbs by Maurizio Oviglia
04/04/2013 - Climbing
Sardinia's needles: two rock climbs by Maurizio Oviglia
The report by Maurizio Oviglia about two beautiful needles in Sardinia: the recently restored Dillosauro 6b+, first climbed by Enzo Lecis in 1995 and Sinfonia del mulino bianco, the new route established together with Giorgio Caddeo above Baunei.
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
25/02/2013 - Climbing
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower
Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful...
Plaisir climbing on the cliffs of Masua in Sardinia
19/02/2013 - Climbing
Plaisir climbing on the cliffs of Masua in Sardinia
Le Grand Mammut (6a+, 140m) by Bruno Fonnesu and Acciughe & Bottarga (6a, 160m) by Davide Lagomarsino and Maurizio Oviglia: two new multi-pitch rock climbs on the Masua sea cliffs in Sardinia.
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
29/01/2013 - Climbing
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this...

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