Valle dell'Orco new rock climbs

The search for new terrain in Italy's trad valley par excellence of Italian trad is currently evolving along two different themes. On the one hand there are those who discover single pitches or short climbs, following the example set by Britain's Randall and Whittaker, and on the other there are those who remain faithful to the valley traditions by putting up medium-length multi pitches hidden in the folds of the valley, discovering and establishing them with a limited number of bolts, maybe placed on slabs only.

Massimiliano Celano and Tiziano Marchetti are among those who fall into the second "cult" category; these Piedmont climbers have spent years exploring even the most hidden corners of this valley. Many of the routes in the lower part of the valley have been put up by them and of these many have never been published before (or only on the website Gulliver.it). Furthermore, they have been instrumental in the development of beautiful and highly popular crags dotted around Ceresole Reale such as Pietra Filosofale and Droide.

This article aims to introduce the latest efforts of "Maz & Tiz" as they like to call themselves. The routes breach a face they called Altrolato, the Other Side and in future articles we'll analyse the short single pitches, as well as finding out more about this infamous duo above.

Maurizio Oviglia

ALTROLATO by Massimiliano Celano
Grandiose rock face, clearly visible from the tunnel entrance at Ceresole Reale, up on the left. It has similar as features Ancesieu (Vallone di Forzo), ranges in height from circa 100 - 250 metres and is a remarkable 1 km wide.

Name Grade Length Quintoppiù 7a+ (6a oblig) 100m Beautiful climb, exposed, with some great moves. Rock still needs cleaning in sections. Duel 7a+ 50m Established with the use of aid Adriano Trombetta and Aziz with difficulties up to A2, Duel was subsequently freed on 5 october 2011 by the first ascentionists. As the name suggests, beautiful twin cracks offer physical, continuous and elegant climbing. Strategie per l'inutile 6b+ (5c oblig) 150m Great 5-pitch line established by Massimiliano Celano and Tiziano Marchetti in September 2012. Obscured by Clouds 7a (6b oblig) 170m Demanding and physically challenging climb in a steep and severe setting, thin belay. Wonderful climbing up excellent rock.

Approach: before the tunnel turn off left and stop before the bridge that leads to Borgata Pian. Cross the bridge and then take the track to the right, the paved one that leads up to the face. reach the first cairn quickly and follow these up steep ground to reach the base of the face. "Quintoppiù and "Duel" are reached in 30 minutes. If there is no water in the river this can be crossed everywhere, alternatively used the insitu rope fixed beneath a large boulder. 300-400m height gain, altitude 1300m.