Plaisir climbing on the cliffs of Masua in Sardinia

The first climb was established from above by Bruno Fonnesu, the tireless local climber, new router and also the man behind numerous paths such as the beautiful Miniere nel blu, Mines above the blue sea. "It all started" explained Fonnesu "when Corrado Pibiri asked me one evening if I could help him clean some loose rock off the route he was establishing, Pilastro dell'Italia Liberata. It was then that I noticed the possible new line, which I later called Le Grand Mammut. I managed to complete this project thanks also to the financial support (and drill) of Giorgio Enne, Louis Piguet (Mammut representative in Switzerland) and his partner Francoise Tauxe, to whom I decided to dedicate this route." The new line is 140m high and starts immediately to the right of A scuola dal basso. It is fully bolted with difficulties up to 6a+ (one section) and obligatory 5c climbing.

The second route came into being in different circumstances, namely by the desire of Genoa-born and recent Sardinia local Davide Lagomarsino who wanted realise a dream he'd cherished for years, namely to establish a new climb up one of the island's limestone cliffs. Wanting to start with something easy, David told me about his plan and asked if I had any ideas. Just a few months ago, while repeating Tukafezzalite with my partner, I had seen an easy line close to Via Gabriella, an old route no longer climbed as the start had collapsed some 20 years ago. And so I decided to accompany Davide. We should have climbed with Bruno Fonnesu, but work commitments stopped him from joining us, and he was more than happy to offer us a drink after the climb and offer some support by donating some gear.

The route was established over two days ground-up and offers 16om - five pitches - of 5b/5c climbing with one 6a section at the start. Fully bolted (stainless steel 316L close to the sea), it ascends right above the sea. The name tries to represent the Sardinian-Genoese partnership with a local food metaphor hence Acciughe & Bottarga, Anchovies & Bottarga. More information about the route and photos can be found on Davide's new site Sardegna Verticale.

Maurizio Oviglia


TOPO: Le Grand Mammut, Masua, Sardinia

TOPO: Acciughe & Bottarga, Masua, Sardinia