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Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves...
Jakob Schubert sends 9a at Santa Linya
26/12/2012 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert sends 9a at Santa Linya
At Santa Linya in Spain Jakob Schubert has redpointed Ciudad de Dios 9a.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this...
Markus Bock adds new desperates to the Frankenjura
19/12/2012 - Climbing
Markus Bock adds new desperates to the Frankenjura
Markus Bock has made the first ascent of four hard new climbs in Germany's Frankenjura, Reunion (8c), The Obsessed (8c+), The 4 Horsemen (8c+) and Witchtripper (9a).
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
17/12/2012 - Alpinism
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
In summer 2012 a group of young Swiss climbers established La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum) on peak Whale Top (1303m) in Southern Greenland.
Chardonnet Migot Spur, first ski descent by Bruchez and Jornet Burgada
Chardonnet Migot Spur, first ski descent by Bruchez and Jornet Burgada
On 23/11/2012 Vivian Bruchez and Kilian Jornet Burgada made the first ski descent of the Migot Spur located on Aiguille de Chardonnet in the Mont Blanc massif.
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio...
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012 - Competitions
Mina Markovic and Sachi Amma win the Lead World Cup 2012
19/11/2012. The last stage of the Lead World Cup held last weekend in Kranj, Slovenia, was won by home-athlete Mina Markovic who has now won her second overall World Cup. In the men's event Austria's Jakob Schubert won the Kranj...
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
16/11/2012 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
A short interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler who, together with Paul Ramsden, climbed the stunning new route Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.
Adam Ondra - a multi-pitch interview
24/10/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra - a multi-pitch interview
The Czech climbing phenomenon Adam Ondra talks about competitions, his first months after high school, climbing at his limit and future projects in this detailed interview.
Lead World Cup: Kim and Min win in South Korea
23/10/2012 - Competitions
Lead World Cup: Kim and Min win in South Korea
Jain Kim and Hyunbin Min win the 7th stage of the Lead World Cup 2012 held in Mokpo, South Korea.
Baffin Island video trailer
22/10/2012 - Climbing
Baffin Island video trailer
The trailer of this summer's Baffin island expedition by Auer, Felderer, Lepesant, Mocellin, Peterson and Pou.
Fitz Roy and Patagonia in winter by Lerjen-Demjen and Ackermann
16/10/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy and Patagonia in winter by Lerjen-Demjen and Ackermann
The video of Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann about their attempt to establish a new route in winter up Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Stefan Glowacz frees Golden Shower in the Verdon Gorge
12/10/2012 - Climbing
Stefan Glowacz frees Golden Shower in the Verdon Gorge
German climber Stefan Glowacz has freed his project, the multi-pitch Golden Shower (8b+, 150m) in the Verdon Gorge, France.
Adam Ondra makes his Change!
04/10/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra makes his Change!
The interview with Adam Ondra who on 04/10/2012 freed his mega project at the Hanshelleren - Flatanger cave in Norway. The 55m route is called Change, is graded 9b+ and is certainly one of the hardest sport climbs in the...

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