1483 News found

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Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this...
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
18/02/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl has made the first winter solo traverse of the Geislerspitzen - Odles (Villnöß - Funes) in the Dolomites.
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
17/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
From the 12th to 13th of February 2023, Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli established Couloir Isaïe, a new mixed climb on Punta Brendel on the west face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3,773 m) in...
François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli dream the unimaginable on Mont Blanc du Créton
09/02/2023 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli dream the unimaginable on Mont Blanc du Créton
On 30/02/2023 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of 'Sognando l’inimmaginabile' on the East Face of Mont Blanc du Créton (3406m, Petites Murailles, Italy). 600 meters high, the new mixed climb is graded WI...
Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia receives its Wake Up by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini,  Francesco Ratti
06/02/2023 - Alpinism
Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia receives its Wake Up by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Francesco Ratti
On 31/01/2023 the East Face of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Francesco Ratti made the first ascent of 'Wake Up' (425m, 7a/A2).
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines
Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m)....
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice!
26/01/2023 - Alpinism
Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice!
Precisely 8 years after contracting meningitis and meningococcal septicaemia, Italian mountaineer and multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri successfully made two ascents of Aconcagua, at 6961 meters the highest mountain in South America. This is Lanfri’s fourth Seven Summits peak, after Mont...
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
19/01/2023 - Alpinism
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of...
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
11/01/2023 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established...
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
03/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
From 29 October to 16 November 2022 Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner and Isidora Llarena established a new route on Cerro Arenales above the Northern Patagonian Icefield. In order to do so, the three women completed an 150km autonomous traverse through...
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in...
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
13/12/2022 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.
Grandes Murailles new mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Stefano Stradelli
06/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grandes Murailles new mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Stefano Stradelli
On 27/11/2022 up the SE Face of the Grandes Murailles (Pennine Alps) François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Hyper Couloir delle Grandes Murailles - Couloir Franco Oberti'.
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
28/11/2022 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.

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