Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel

Climbing alpine style from 14 - 18 October 2023, Polish alpinists Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel established 'Just Breathe' (M5 WI4 R/X 1600m) on the NE Pillar of Chobutse / Tsoboje (6686m) in the Rolwaling Himalaya of Nepal.
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Chobutse in Nepal and the line of 'Just Breathe' (M5 VI4 R/X 1600m), climbed alpine style from 14-18 October 2023 by Polish mountaineers Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel
Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel

During a remarkable five-day push from 14-18 October 2023, young Polish alpinists Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel established a new route on Chobutse (6686m), also referred to as Tsoboje, in Nepal's Rolwaling valley. The route ascends the mountain's proud NE Pillar, attempted in spring 2019 by Mihnea Prundeanu from Romania and Kyriakos Rossidis from Cyprus, and climbs a 1600m line past difficulties up to M5 WI4 R/X. Just Breathe was climbed alpine stye, without porters and fixed ropes.

After establishing advanced base camp at 4,900m they acclimatised by climbing up to 6000m above the Rolwaling glacier, then set off on 14 October, slightly earlier than originally planned in order to make the most of the weather window. They initially climbed what they described as "Typical Tatra terrain" and, having reached their planned bivy spot at midday, they decided to push on and eventually spent the first night in a snow hammock at 5,750m.

After enduring this cold bivouac they set off at first light the next day and pushed on to the snow ridge, eventually bivouacking at 6,200m in a snow cave inside a serac. Kimel explained to the Polish website wspinanie.pl "I was convinced that it was a cool idea. This serac has been here so long that it wouldn't fall on our heads in one night. It was a very comfortable camp because we were sheltered from the wind, it was flat, we could easily take off our harnesses and crampons and not have to stand. I felt that we were resting after that sleepless night."

The next morning they set off enthusiastically, believing they would summit and descend that same day but the terrain proved more complex than they had thought, providing technical climbing on a winding ridge past 70° terrain, various overhangs, seracs and, above all, loose snow which provided absolutely no protection. Despite feeling the effects of the altitude the climbers pushed on and finally topped out at 3:30 pm. After just one summit selfie, they immediately started the descent down the SE Face. This, too, turned out to be far more dangerous and complicated than they had thought and a further two bivouacs were needed before they finally returned to BC, exhausted but safe, three days later.




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