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Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
16/02/2023 - Climbing
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
Climbing destinations and travel: notes from Leonidio in the Peloponnese, without a shadow of doubt one of the best rock climbing areas in Greece. By Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after...
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio,...
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
28/11/2022 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar...
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
11/08/2022 - Alpinism
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).
Broad Peak summit for Marco Camandona and Pietro Picco
20/07/2022 - Alpinism
Broad Peak summit for Marco Camandona and Pietro Picco
On Tuesday 19 July 2022 Italian mountaineers Pietro Picco and Marco Camandona reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047m) without supplementary oxygen. This is Camandona's twelfth eightthousander without O2.
Six Italians summit Nanga Parbat with Cesar Rosales from Peru
05/07/2022 - Alpinism
Six Italians summit Nanga Parbat with Cesar Rosales from Peru
Italian alpinists Roger Bovard, Marco Camandona, François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Jerome Perruquet and Pietro Picco all summited Nanga Parbat (8126m) yesterday without supplementary oxygen. Cesar Rosales from Peru reached the summit of the ninth highest mountain in the world with...
Marmolada glacier collapse kills 11. 'Phase 2' now begins on the Queen of the Dolomites
03/07/2022 - Alpinism
Marmolada glacier collapse kills 11. 'Phase 2' now begins on the Queen of the Dolomites
A huge portion of the Marmolada glacier in the Italian Dolomites collapsed below Punta Rocca early on Sunday afternoon, killing 11 mountaineers.
- All 11 victims have been identified
- Phase Two now begins, marked by drone searches for the...
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
On the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco have added a difficult new variation start to the Kinshofer route. Called Valle d'Aosta Express, the 1400m addition breaches difficulties up to AI 90° M6...
An appeal for Korra
08/06/2022 - Alpinism
An appeal for Korra
The family of Korra Corrado Pesce, the 41-year-old Italian who perished at the end of January on Cerro Torre in Patagonia, has launched an appeal asking the Argentine government to register the death of the mountaineer in order to obtain...
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and...
David Göttler summits Everest without supplementary oxygen
22/05/2022 - Alpinism
David Göttler summits Everest without supplementary oxygen
On 21 May 2022, 43-year-old German alpinist David Göttler reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is is sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
18/03/2022 - Alpinism
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
From 21 to 23 February Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti and Hernán Rodriguez completed the skyline traverse of Grupo La Paz in the Cordillera Riesco in Patagonia, Chile. The trio climbed ‘Ayayema Wesqar’ alpine style from west to east past difficulties...
Grandes Jorasses Directe de l'Amitié repeated by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
07/02/2022 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses Directe de l'Amitié repeated by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
From 24 to 26 January 2022 French mountaineers Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines repeated Directe de l'Amitié on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

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