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Ricordi nebbiosi, big new rock climb up Cima della Busazza, Civetta, Dolomites
01/06/2017 - Alpinism
Ricordi nebbiosi, big new rock climb up Cima della Busazza, Civetta, Dolomites
From 2 to 3 August 2016 Giorgio Travaglia, Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of Ricordi nebbiosi (IX-A1), an almost 1200m high route up the NW Face of Cima della Busazza (Civetta, Dolomites).
King of Kanzi - Kanzianiberg in Austria to host 1980’s Climbing Festival
24/05/2017 - Events
King of Kanzi - Kanzianiberg in Austria to host 1980’s Climbing Festival
From 2 to 5 June 2017 Kanzianiberg in Austria will host King of Kanzi, the 1980’s climbing festival. Special guests include Nives Meroi, Romano Benet, Steve House, Jacopo Larcher, Markus Pucher, Michael Kemeter, Lisi Steurer, Lorraine Huber and Thomas Brandauer.
Marek Raganowicz adds big aid climbs to Baffin Island
20/05/2017 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz adds big aid climbs to Baffin Island
Polish climber Marek Raganowicz has made the first ascent of two difficult big walls on the Ship's Prow on Baffin Island, Canada: MantraMandala (A3) and Secret of Silence (A4).
Alaska: Greg Boswell and Will Sim climb two big new climbs routes above Buckskin Glacier
04/05/2017 - Alpinism
Alaska: Greg Boswell and Will Sim climb two big new climbs routes above Buckskin Glacier
In April 2017 Greg Boswell and Will Sim made the first ascent of two big new alpine climbs in the Central Alaskan Range: Beastiality up Bear's Tooth and Shark Fishing on a mountain on the opposite side of the Buckskin...
Cengia Giradili, the panoramic new crag in Sardinia
20/04/2017 - Climbing
Cengia Giradili, the panoramic new crag in Sardinia
Richard Felderer introduces the new crag Cengia Giradili at the foot of famous Punta Giradili close to Baunei in Sardinia. 22 new routes from 5b to 8b in a spectacularly beautiful setting.
Gondo Crack climbed trad by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
14/04/2017 - Interviews
Gondo Crack climbed trad by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
Interview with Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl after the first free ascent of Gondo Crack at the crag Cippo in Switzerland. The duo freed the route as an 8c sport climb and then did without the bolts and climbed the...
Matterhorn North Face / Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf forge new climb
13/04/2017 - Alpinism
Matterhorn North Face / Alexander Huber, Dani Arnold, Thomas Senf forge new climb
Mountaineering on the Matterhorn: from 15 - 16 March Alexander Huber from Germany and Switzerland’s Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf climbed a new route up the legendary North Face of one of the symbols of the Alps. The new climb...
Cerro Torre - David Lama, Peter Ortner in A Snowball's Chance in Hell
19/03/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre - David Lama, Peter Ortner in A Snowball's Chance in Hell
The entire film A Snowball's Chance in Hell, featuring Austrian alpinists David Lama and Peter Ortner making the first free ascent of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia, carried out in January 2012.
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
16/03/2017 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
In summer 2016 German rock climber made the first free ascent of Ganesha, a seven-pitch 8c he had established alone up the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Alm in Austria. Buhl climbed rope solo.
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
15/03/2017 - Climbing
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
On 14 March 2017 American rock climbing pioneer Royal Robbins passed away. Aged 82, Robbins was one of the best American climbers during the ’60’s and ’70’s, the period known in "Golden Age"" of Yosemite Valley climbing. Robbins was a...
Corna Rossa di Bratto, the rock climbing game continues
06/03/2017 - Climbing
Corna Rossa di Bratto, the rock climbing game continues
Gianni Tomasoni, the historic local climber at the crag Corna Rossa di Bratto, talks about this cliff in Italy’s Val Seriana which was recently developed further with the addition of an entirely new sector called Solarium.
 Monte Miletto, new mixed climb Infinite Dreams in Italy’s Matese mountains
23/02/2017 - Alpinism
Monte Miletto, new mixed climb Infinite Dreams in Italy’s Matese mountains
Winter mountaineering in Molise, Italy: Riccardo Quaranta reports about Infinite Dreams (120m, AI4-, TD), the new mixed climb he established Monte Miletto in the Matese massif, established on 15/02/2017 with Agnese Flavi.
Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella
16/02/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella
The alpinism and adventure up 'El Valor del Miedo’ (1000m, 90°, M6+, A2), the new mixed route established by the Ragni di Lecco climbers David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella who finally resolved the long-standing problem of the...
Merry Christmas, amazing icefall climbed in Linzhou Taihang canyon, China
13/02/2017 - Alpinism
Merry Christmas, amazing icefall climbed in Linzhou Taihang canyon, China
Ice climbing in China: a stunning icefall resembling a Christmas tree was first ascended on 31/01/2017 by He Chuan and Liu Yang in XianXia canyon, a branch of Linzhou Taihang canyon.
San Vito lo Capo climbing: Christoph Hainz and Andrea De Martin Polo ascend November Sun
08/02/2017 - Climbing
San Vito lo Capo climbing: Christoph Hainz and Andrea De Martin Polo ascend November Sun
In November 2016 Christoph Hainz and Andrea De Martin Polo established 'November Sun' (7b, obligatory 7a, 270m), a new multi-pitch rock climb on Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily, Italy.
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
06/02/2017 - Alpinism
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
On 20 and 21 January 2017 François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti and Jules Pession (Cervino mountain guides) made the first ascents of 'Livello Inferiore' and 'Nuovi Orizzonti', two new mixed routes in Valtournenche. Francesco Ratti reports.

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