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Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei -...
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites
02/11/2016 - Alpinism
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites
On the Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites, Francesco Leardi and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of 'L'uomo volante'. The new rock climb is dedicated to Dario Zanon, an Italian BASE Jumper who died in...
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
During his first visit to Yosemite, USA, Czech climber Adam Ondra has immediately begun attempting 'Dawn Wall', the hardest big wall climb in world freed on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first...
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
04/10/2016 - Alpinism
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.
Ines Papert climbs Scaramouche on Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps
27/09/2016 - Alpinism
Ines Papert climbs Scaramouche on Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps
On Hoher Göll in the Berchtesgadener Alps, German rock climber and alpinist Ines Papert has repeated Scaramouche (300m, 8a), a rarely repeated climb put up by the Huber brothers in 1989.
Puscanturpa Este, French forge new route in Peru
26/09/2016 - Alpinism
Puscanturpa Este, French forge new route in Peru
In August 2016 French alpinists Arnaud Bayol, Antoine Bletton, Cyril Duchene and Dimitry Munoz established 'El Juego Sumando' ( 400m, ED 7b max, 6b/A2 obligatory) on the North Face of Puscanturpa Este in the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru.
Cima Grande di Lavaredo Spanish Route, second free ascent by Jacek Matuszek e Łukasz Dudek
23/09/2016 - Alpinism
Cima Grande di Lavaredo Spanish Route, second free ascent by Jacek Matuszek e Łukasz Dudek
On 31 August 2016 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek made the second free ascent of the difficult Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
21/09/2016 - Alpinism
Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
In August 2016 Xaver Mayr and Thomas Holler made the first free ascent of Nordwestwand (300m, VIII) on Schwarze Wand, Wetterstein.
Lumignano Climbing Marathon 2016
07/09/2016 - Climbing
Lumignano Climbing Marathon 2016
On 15/10/2016 the crag Lumignano (Italy) will host its international Climbing Marathon meeting.
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
07/09/2016 - Alpinism
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
In August 2016 French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain ascended the East Pillar and SE Ridge of Siula Grande in Peru via their new route 'Le bruit des glaçons' (ED / 1400m / 6c WI5).
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
01/09/2016 - Climbing
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of 'La vita è amara', a climb multi-pitch climb he first ascended with Giovanni Manconi at Supramonte di Oliena, Sardinia.
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
23/08/2016 - Alpinism
Ötztal, new rock climb up Kristallwand by Hansjörg Auer and Alexander Blümel
Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel have established 'The loss of the Demantoid', a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Kristallwand face on Kirchkogel (3280m) in Austria. The route was established in memory of their friend Gerhard Fiegl.

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