Ricordi nebbiosi, big new rock climb up Cima della Busazza, Civetta, Dolomites

A year after the first ascent of Via degli Studenti up the famous NW Face of Civetta in the Dolomites, last summer Val Gardena's young alpinists Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth and their friend from Genoa Giorgio Travaglia returned to the same massif to establish another new route.They opted for another NW Face, but this time they chose a line up Cima Busazza they described as "less famous, more hidden from view, but by no means easier."

After hauling their gear to the base of the face, the four began climbing a line close to the routes Gilberti - Castiglioni and Casarotto (Giacomo Albiero, Giuseppe Cogato, Renato Casarotto, 1976). Although Martin Dejori was struck by rock early on, this didn’t slow them down and by midday they reached the yellow roofs circa 300m below the summit. At this point the real difficulties began: Walpoth needed 4 hours to forge the first pitch into the section of yellow rock, while Travaglia started to establish what would turn out to be the route’s crux.

At nightfall the four bivied on a small ledge at about half height, while the next morning they ascended their fixed ropes to reach their highpoint and continue on through the difficult roofs. Travaglia handed the baton to Martin Dejori and then Alex Walpoth, but at noon they had only added 20 new meters - not without difficulties and past poor rock. On a completely smooth section, Walpoth reluctantly placed two bolts by hand - the only ones on the entire 1170m outing. The crux pitch had required a total of 8 hours. "Fortunately, they were the only ones, and even if placing a bolt is ethically not beautiful, our main priority is our safety" explained Walpoth, adding "On the other hand, protecting lives is ethical, too..."

After having made slow progress the four were already resigned to spending another night on the face, and when darkness reached them they climbed the impressive, perfect corner they’d noticed after breaching the roof. “At that moment” Walpoth explained "a pleasant state of calm engulfed us and we decided we’d push on up to the top. Shortly before midnight we reached the highest point, accompanied by a wonderful inner state of satisfaction and fatigue. We slept directly on the summit and were awakened by the first rays of sun."



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