Corna Rossa di Bratto, the rock climbing game continues

Yes, fifteen years have passed, but I still enjoy climbing at "Corna Rossa Bratto”. I like to day dreaming about it, coming up with new routes, and every year I’m drawn back to this pristine limestone rock face…

I began exploring this crag back in 2000 and at the time there were only two aid routes. The first pitches of both of these had been freed during the 80’s, and I was immediately struck by this 70m rock face. Leo Guerini and I decided to inspect it more careful to see if something new could be climbed and, the next weekend, we retuned with Rioby - our drill - and a handful of bolts and we created Justine & Juliette. This wasn’t a single pitch sports climb, but a multi-pitch route that went right to the top of the crag; the three pitches are all beautiful and by no means trivial, although nowadays most climb only the first 30m 6b+/6c, past exciting moves on small crimps and goutte d’eau on reddish rock.

Over the years all the other sport climbs were added, was well as two multi-pitches. I bolted all these on my own, apart from one pitch which I created with Romolo Ferrari, a friend and long-term climbing partner.

In 2013/2014 the time came to develop the the rightmost overhanging sector called Solarium which now hosts some of the hardest single pitches. Corna Rossa di Bratto is certainly one of the best and most famous crags in Lombardy… and the game continues.

by Gianni Tomasoni

TOPO: Corna Rossa di Bratto, Italy

THANKS
Thanks to all my friends at “Presolana Climbing” who helped me by cleaning the base of the crags and the access path. Thanks to those who provided gear, hopefully I haven't forgotten anyone.
- Comune di Castione della Presolana
- CAI "Carlo Medici" Castione della Presolana
- Climbing Technology
- "Book for bolt" by Versante Sud
- Ragni di Lecco
- fundraising at Bar "Da Monica" at Bratto and "Pastisser" at Clusone.