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Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima missing on K2
28/07/2024 - Alpinism
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima missing on K2
Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima are reported as missing on the West Face of K2.
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
25/07/2024 - Alpinism
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
24/07/2024 - Climbing
Tuva Stavø makes first female ascent of Arctandria on Blåmann in Norway
On 14 July 2024 Norwegian climber Tuva Stavø made the first female ascent of 'Arctandria' on Store Blåmann in Norway.
Andy Steindl sets new speed record on Monte Rosa Spaghetti Tour
23/07/2024 - Alpinism
Andy Steindl sets new speed record on Monte Rosa Spaghetti Tour
Swiss mountaineer Andreas Steindl has completed the famous Haute Route of Monte Rosa, also known as the Spaghetti Tour, in 7 hours, 45 minutes and 44 seconds.
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
19/07/2024 - Alpinism
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
Climbing on 18-19 June 2024, Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn established a new route along the South Ridge of Punta Vardaz in the Mont Blanc massif. Rinn reports.
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/07/2024 - Alpinism
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
17/07/2024 - Alpinism
New climb added to Piz Badile by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
On 29 June 2024 the Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo made the first ascent of 'Æterna nix' (VIII, 200m) on the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
Video: Jules Marchaland sends Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
13/07/2024 - Climbing
Video: Jules Marchaland sends Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
The video of French climber Jules Marchaland making a rare repeat of 'Three Degrees of Separation', the iconic 9a+ freed by Chris Sharma in 2007.
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
11/07/2024 - Alpinism
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
David Göttler has abandoned his ambitious expedition on Nanga Parbat for this year, due to unfavourable conditions during his final summit attempt. The German alpinist had hoped to climb the Rupal Face alpine style, initially with Mike Arnold, then with Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein.
Embracing the Grim - a tribute to Line van Den Berg
09/07/2024 - Alpinism
Embracing the Grim - a tribute to Line van Den Berg
The short film 'Embracing the Grim' by Aleksandra Janiak featuring Fay Manners and Line van den Berg, the talented Dutch alpinist who perished in 2023
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
08/07/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
From 25 - 29 June 2024 the Japanese climbers Keisuke Ohkura, Kazumasa Ostubo and Yudai Suzuki made the first ascent of 'Dream House' (1240m, M6, AI5+, A2, R/X, VI) on the Quitaraju (6036m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
29/06/2024 - Climbing
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.

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