Robert Jasper receives 'Primus Inter Pares' award from Polish Mountaineering Association

German alpinist Robert Jasper has been awarded the 'Primus Inter Pares 2024' prize from the Polski Związek Alpinizmu, the Polish Alpine Club. This award recognises his extraordinary life's work and his pioneering first ascents in the field of alpinism
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Robert Jasper making his rope solo first ascent of Meltdown up the north face of the Eiger
Nicolas Hojac

Renowned German mountaineer Robert Jasper has been honoured with the ‘PRIMUS INTER PARES’ Award 2024 by the Polish Alpine Club. This award recognises his extraordinary life's work and his pioneering first ascents in the field of alpinism. The award not only emphasises his importance as a mountaineer, but also his tireless pioneering spirit, with which he has repeatedly set new standards.

"Being honoured with the ‘Primus Inter Pare Award 2024’ is not only a highlight in my career" Jasper stated "but also recognition of the vision and tireless commitment with which he shapes both alpinism and life in general."

Born in 1968, Jasper's list of achievements is exceptionally long and includes numerous spectacular first ascents in the Alps and worldwide. Standout ascents include
- In 1991 for the solo ascents of the three legendary north faces - Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses - as well as for the first ascent of the Pilier de Angle north face (90°) and the first solo ascent of the Abominette couloir M6 on the Freney pillars of Mont Blanc. This extraordinary feat was recognised in France as one of the greatest alpine achievements of the year.
- Nuptse East (7804m) First ascent of Diamond Tower (7050m), one of the most difficult climbs in the Himalayas.
- Alaska, Denali (6194m) climbed on two different routes in just four days.
- Patagonia: First ascent of the Murallon North Pillar, The Lost World (1100m, M8) and the first ascent of the north face Gone with the wind (1100m, 9+ A2, M5), which was nominated for the Piolet d'Or.
- Baffin Island: The Bastions, 1st ascent: Take the long way home A4, 8a, 700 metres. Crossing from Pont Inlet to Clyde River (600 km) as part of the ‘Baffin Island by fair means Expedition’, a skiing and big wall climbing expedition. Nominated for the Piolet d'Or.
- Greenland solo expedition: Over 100 km by sea kayak and 100 km on foot in the wilderness and the first ascent of the Molar Spire Stonecircle, 7c, 450 m, solo redpoint. This achievement was also nominated for the Piolet d'Or.
- speed record for the Direct Shroud on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in just 2:20 hours, followed by an ascent of all the peaks and a return to Chamonix on the same day - an achievement that has not been repeated to this day.
- Jasper has spent over 360 days on the north face of the Eiger, climbing 30 different routes, including several first ascents. The most important include the first grade 10- (8a) on the north face of the Eiger - Symphonie d`liberté, as well as the first free ascents of the world-famous Direttissimas (Harlin, Japanese and Ghilini-Piola). The first ascent of the most difficult free climb on the north face of the Eiger, Odyssey 10- (8a+), was nominated for the Piolet d'Or.
Jasper has also set international standards in mixed climbing with the world's most difficult routes, including the first ascents of Flying Circus (M10), Knight of the Coconut (M12) and Ironman (M14+).




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