1557 News found
07/09/2023 - Alpinism
Via Bolago established on Quarto Campanile degli Armi in Brenta Dolomites The report by Daniele Bolognani who with Davide Dallago made the first ascent of via Bolago (VII, 200m) on the east face of Quarto Campanile degli Armi in the Brenta Dolomites
05/09/2023 - Alpinism
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana Spanish mountaineers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana have climbed a new route on Southwest Face of Latok II in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair summited the distinctive tower they have now called Latok Thumb (6380m) via their 'Atracció Instintiva' (1100m, 7a run out, A2+, M5). Success comes about after a previous...
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
30/08/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner British rock climber James Pearson has repeated The Parthian Shot E10 6c at Burbage South, UK, without the side-runner in the crack on the right. The Brit, no newcomer to hard and dangerous trad ascents, stated after his repeat 'This one means a lot.'
25/08/2023 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway British rock climber Pete Whittaker has made the first free ascent of the second pitch of 'Eigerdosis' on the Profilveggen / Profile wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. The previous aid climb is now a trad crack that checks in at 8c.
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
15/08/2023 - Alpinism
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection Italian mountaineers Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi and Tommaso Vection have made the first ascent of Super Elios on Tour de Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo (8b+, 550m).
24/07/2023 - Climbing
Mathew Wright frees bold Magical Thinking E10 at Pavey Ark, UK Mat Wright has made the first ascent of the bold trad climb 'Magical Thinking' E10 7a at Pavey Ark, England.
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
10/07/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites) by Nicolò Geremia, Mirco Grasso At Punta Frassenè on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites, Italy) Nicolò Geremia and Mirco Grasso have made the first ascent of Barbari nel TAO (IX+/X-, 500m). Both describe this multi-pitch as 'one of the most beautiful and fun routes' they know.
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours On 11 June 2023 Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold soloed the three ridges on the legendary Salbitschijen in 9 hours, 36 minutes and 55 seconds.
27/06/2023 - Climbing
Didier Berthod makes first ascent of The Crack of Destiny at Squamish in Canada Swiss climber Didier Berthod has made the first ascent of The Crack of Destiny on The Chief at Squamish in Canada. Graded 5.14, this checks in as one of the hardest crack climbs in North America.
22/06/2023 - Alpinism
Cœur de Géant repeated on Dent du Géant by Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert, Kilian Moni On 17/06/2023 the young French mountaineers Mathis Garayt (19), Arthur Poindefert (19), Kilian Moni (20) made the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on the NW Face of Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif. The 580m mixed climb is graded 580m, ED, M6+/7, WI 4+, 5c (5.10a) and...
21/06/2023 - Climbing
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b
15/06/2023 - Interviews
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.
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