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Jonas Schild repeats Le Voyage at Annot in France
17/01/2023 - Climbing
Jonas Schild repeats Le Voyage at Annot in France
On 7 January 2023 Swiss climber Jonas Schild has repeated 'Le Voyage', the E10 at Annot first ascended by James Pearson in 2017 and reputed to be the most difficult trad climb France.
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
16/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
On 10/01/2023 Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completed the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m) on the east face of Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. After a bivouac on the summit the trio descended to El Chalten the next...
Greg Boswell establishes hardest winter climb in Scotland at Lochnagar
14/01/2023 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell establishes hardest winter climb in Scotland at Lochnagar
On Thursday 12/01/2023 Greg Boswell made the first ascent of 'Bring da ruckus' at Lochnagar. Graded XII 13, this 2-pitch outing is one of the hardest mixed climbs in Scotland.
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team
06/01/2023 - Alpinism
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team
Alex Txikon, with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa, Gamje Babu Sherpa and Chepal Sherpa, summited Manaslu in winter and without supplementary oxygen. This is the first integral winter ascent of the 8th highest mountain in the world, i.e. during the astronomical winter.
Brette Harrington masters Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, demanding multipitch in Sardinia, Italy
04/01/2023 - Alpinism
Brette Harrington masters Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, demanding multipitch in Sardinia, Italy
Brette Harrington has made a rare free ascent of Mezzogiorno di Fuoco (8b max, 7c obligatory, expo, 270m) on Punta Giradili in Sardinia, Italy.
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
31/12/2022 - Climbing
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after travelling to the mountain by sailing boat from France with...
Vortex added to Cul Mor in Scotland by Greg Boswell & Guy Robertson
24/12/2022 - Alpinism
Vortex added to Cul Mor in Scotland by Greg Boswell & Guy Robertson
On 18/12/2022 Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson made the first ascent of Vortex X,10, a testing new winter climb on Cul Mor in NW Scotland
Marco Milanese's BASE jump from the Dolomites Vajolet Towers
20/12/2022 - Alpinism
Marco Milanese's BASE jump from the Dolomites Vajolet Towers
Paralpinism in the Dolomites: on 02/11/2022 Marco Milanese made a free solo and base jump from Torre Delago (2790m), one of the major Vajolet Towers in the Rosengarten massif, Italy.
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
16/12/2022 - Climbing
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.
Bronwyn Hodgins repeats Necronomicon horizontal roof crack at Canyonlands, USA
02/12/2022 - Climbing
Bronwyn Hodgins repeats Necronomicon horizontal roof crack at Canyonlands, USA
Canadian rock climber Bronwyn Hodgins has repeated the horizontal roof crack Necronomicon (5.13d/14a) at Moab, Canyonlands USA. The crack climb was first ascended by Jean-Pierre Ouellet in 2011.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Beth Rodden's Meltdown in Yosemite
26/11/2022 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Beth Rodden's Meltdown in Yosemite
On 22/11/2022, Italian climber Jacopo Larcher successfully made the 3rd ascent of the famous trad crack climb Meltdown in Yosemite Valley, USA.
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
22/11/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll which was awarded a Piolets d'Or 2022: the Moonwalk Traverse, ie the solo traverse from south to north of the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia, carried out by the Belgian mountaineer from 5 - 10 February 2021.
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
07/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ondrej Huserka, Wadim Jablonski establish Gangotri Gambling in Garhwal Himalaya
In mid-October Ondrej Huserka (Slovakia) and Wadim Jabłoński (Poland) completed the first ascent of Gangotri Gambling (6c+ M6 A0, 600m) on Phaalkan Meenaar tower above the Kedar Tal valley in the Indian Garhwal Himalayas. The peak is named in honour of Andrzej Sokołowski.

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