Big new mixed climb on Civetta (Dolomites) by Christian Casanova, Francesco Favilli, Mathieu Maynadier

From 15-16 January 2024 the Italian mountaineers Christian Casanova and Francesco Favilli teamed up with France's Mathieu Maynadier and forged an impressive new mixed climb in the Dolomites, Mixte Feeling on the NE face of Mount Civetta.

The route starts about 100m to the right of Zuita Patavina, established in 2019 by Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia and Giovanni Zaccaria, and initially climbs a line close to the rounded arête before trending slightly leftwards to join the steep gully that leads to the Punta Civetta col. It is possible that the first section up to the bivouac follows, at least in part, the summer route Via di Sinistra, first ascended on 7 July 1981 by Soro Dorotei, Gianni Gianeselli, Giuliano De Marchi and Renato Pancera.

Casanova, Favilli and Maynadier set off from the Pecol skilifts on Monday morning and started up the route at 12.30pm. Three mixed pitches up to M6+ led them to the bivouac at 4.30pm, while the following morning they set off at around 8.00am to climb the 9 remaining pitches. After reaching the col shortly after midday, they descended via the Alleghesi via ferrata; almost entirely submerged in snow, this required further effort to downclimb safely.

The new route is called Mixte Feeling, is 560m high and breaches difficulties up to M6+/WI5. It was climbed using trad gear only, and the few pegs used at the belays were removed and nothing was left in-situ.

Commenting after the climb Maynadier explained "Nice mixed pitch on limestone and super ambiance to move between those nice walls", while Casanova concluded "Great adventure that I will always treasure. Thanks guys for this wonderful experience... Two unforgettable days!"