Big new mixed climb on Crozzon di Val d'Agola (Brenta Dolomites) by Nicola Castagna, Francesco Salvaterra

A telephone call from Nicola Castagna. Not many words were needed: "In Brenta Alta, opposite the icefalls, a spectacular line has come into condition, let's give it a go!" About ten days later, on our first free day, we were in Val Rendena at five in the morning. The approach on skis wasn't the easiest, but shortly after dawn we started climbing.

The first pitch was technically relatively straightforward, but with little pro it immediately gave us an idea of what lay in store. When I reached the overhanging corner I was surprised to stumble over some pegs. Someone's already climbed it! I got slightly nervous, but soon relaxed, the line seemed top class, the weather was excellent, this meant that we'd try to make a repeat. Nicola climbed a difficult but well-protected corner, past a smooth chimney where calm nerves and unusual body positions were needed. The pitches flowed one after the next and above the second pitch we came across no other gear. The pegs, we deduced, were from a previous attempt.

Pitch by pitch descriptions are boring to read. Suffice to say that the climbing was beautiful, at times difficult and exposed enough to remain etched in our memories. We reached the top at seven in magnificent light. After half an hour of darkness the perfectly full moon rose above Cima Mandron, and there wasn't a breath of air, the temperatures were pleasant. We didn't stop long at the highest point, but the peace, the view and the surreal environment were a beautiful present. We had both needed an intense day in the mountains, a selfish dose of adrenaline and endorphins all to ourselves.

The descent was quick and easy, we used the belays that we have bolted in the way up. In less than two hours we were back at the base, and at 22.00 we ate a momentous pizza at the Civetta pizzeria in Massimeno.

One or two holes... we would have preferred to leave all the belays with two bolts but we had brought too few. The route is equipped with only one anchor at each belays or with traditional gear. In addition to the first repeat, future ascensionists can aspire to the first free ascent: we climbed everything onsight except for the crux pitch, where right at the end a spicy run-out strongly suggested I rest on my ice axe. The pitch was climbed free by Nicola as he seconded, and the grade is only a proposal therefore.

Apart from the gear we found on the second pitch, we used three pegs and left two in-situ, while on several occasions we protected ourselves with three medium peckers which we took with us. The compressed snow did not allow for good ice screws except for a section on pitch 8, the only one with real ice. We later found out that the attempt was made by Roberto Parolari and climbing partner, who intended to finish the route within a few days. We apologise for this involuntary theft.

The name in Argentine slang literally means: "the vagina of the parrot". It is an expression that is often used for various purposes, from a colorful exclamation in an adverse situation or directed at another person, or to define a very isolated place, awkward to access, difficult to reach.

by Francesco Salvaterra

Castagna thanks: SCARPA, racestore.it, Mountain Friends
Salvaterra thanks: Climbing Technology, Montura, SCARPA, Salice Occhiali

Info: www.francescosalvaterra.com, FB Francesco Salvaterra