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Roger Schäli and Marcel Schenk climb Lila Luna, direct start to Sot la sesa at Mulegns
16/02/2021 - Alpinism
Roger Schäli and Marcel Schenk climb Lila Luna, direct start to Sot la sesa at Mulegns
Swiss mountaineers Roger Schäli and Marcel Schenk have made the first ascent of Lila Luna, a direct start to the classic icefall Sot la sesa at Mulegns in Switzerland.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home...
Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet
19/01/2021 - Alpinism
Narsil added to Kandersteg's Breitwangflue by Simon Chatelan, Nicolas Jaquet
On the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet have established the mixed climb Narsil (M10 WI5+). Chatelan reports.
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
12/01/2021 - Climbing
Space Force created in Val Bavona by Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel
German climbers Alexandra Schweikart and Christopher Igel have established Space Force (8a+/230m) a new multi-pitch climb in Valle Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland.
Arcadia, the new crag at Leonidio in Greece
04/01/2021 - Climbing
Arcadia, the new crag at Leonidio in Greece
Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Arcadia, a brilliant new crag close to Leonidio in Greece.
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
28/12/2020 - Climbing
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in...
The Hand of God, new mixed climb in Canadian Rockies by Juan Henriquez, Raphael Slawinski
22/12/2020 - Alpinism
The Hand of God, new mixed climb in Canadian Rockies by Juan Henriquez, Raphael Slawinski
On 1 December 2020 Juan Henriquez and Raphael Slawinski completed The Hand of God, a new mixed climb on Mt. Murchison in the Canadian Rockies.
Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli establish Egidius on Gross Ruchen in Switzerland
14/12/2020 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold, Roger Schäli establish Egidius on Gross Ruchen in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Roger Schäli have established Egidius, a new mixed climb on the north face of Gross Ruchen (3137m) in the Glarus Alps in Switzerland. Arnold had previously attempted the line with Stephan Ruoss in 2009.
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
03/12/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites Campanile Basso West Couloir climbed by Francesco Salvaterra, Piero Onorati
A deep couloir is located between the west face of Torrione Comici and the shoulder of Campanile Basso. Uninviting in summer, this gully is an extremely interesting winter. climb. Mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra reports about his 15 November 2020 ascent...
Rosengarten Dolomites climb in memory of Andrea Concini
27/11/2020 - Alpinism
Rosengarten Dolomites climb in memory of Andrea Concini
Mountain guide Marco Bozzetta reports about the new multi-pitch rock climb established up Pala di Socorda (Dirupi di Larsec, Rosengarten group, Dolomites) with Giovanni Andriano. The new route is dedicated to Andrea Concini who perished last winter on the north...
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
25/11/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The South Tyrolean mountaineers Alex Walpoth, Titus Prinoth and Martin Dejori have made the first ascent of Guardiano dei Sogni on Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites. This big, 1400m new route was established with three...
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
21/11/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
Tonight at 8.00 pm the film 'The Great Shark Hunt: Climb and kayak in Greenland', documenting the by fair means climbing expedition to Greenland carried out in 2014 by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber.
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
17/11/2020 - Alpinism
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
Italian climbers Matteo Della Bordella and Alessandro Zeni have made the first free ascent of Leap of Faith (8a+/b max, 7b+ obligatory, 500m), a big new multi-pitch up Poncione d'Alnasca in Switzerland.
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
16/11/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the...
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
04/11/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
In summer 2019 Italian mountain guide Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi and Martina Paolazzi made the first ascent of the multi-pitch climb Frizzi & Lazzi on Torrione di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.