Jorge Díaz-Rullo's beautiful and brutal 'Café Colombia' project at Margalef

Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo, renowned for his relentless drive and superby difficult repeats and first ascents, is on the brink of redefining sport climbing’s upper echelons with his groundbreaking project in Margalef, Spain. Located in the insanely steep Racó de la Finestra sector, when completed "Café Colombia" promises to join the ranks of the world’s hardest routes.

This 30-meter endurance marathon demands a rare blend of power, precision, and mental fortitude and since first attempting it in fall 2021, Díaz-Rullo has dedicated over 200 days to the project. In November that same year he climbed the lower half and then exited leftwards to create the 9b "Cafe Solo", but despite his almost obsessive focus and dedication, so far the direct line has eluded him. In recent weeks he has got closer and closer to success and the time has come to find out more about his project which is as beautiful as it is brutal.

Jorge, what can you tell us about this route?
I would describe the route as a real monster, it is simply very very hard (or at least for me)! It is one of the most demanding and intimidating I have ever tried. The route is impressive, it is a totally straight line of about 30m on a wall which is about 45° overhanging, on small and sharp holds, without any rest. When you see it from below it seems impossible, but then climbing it, it just about has all the necessary holds in order for it to be climbable.

How long have you been trying it for? Tell us about your efforts
I started trying the route almost four years ago. My first attempts were in the fall of 2021, although at that time the original line was practically impossible for me and I only focused on solving the sections separately. I visualized some easier combinations as first steps in this greater project. That same year I sent Café solo, for which I suggested 9b. In 2022, I managed to do the upper section by combining it with the routes on the left, Carlota la colombiana 9a+ and The journey in Colombia 9b. In spring 2023 I focused on the full line and came very close to sending it, falling on the last crux several times.

This may sound like a stupid question but: what makes it so hard?
It is a route that requires a lot of physical strength, a lot of finger strength, and also requires a lot of body tension. At the same time, it is very demanding in terms of technique and endurance. For me everything is hard, I feel like it's at my limit in every possible way.

That's the physical aspect
Yes. And to all of this, I have to add the mental part, which is another totally different and complex factor. When you try a route for almost four years and you're doing your absolute best, it's easy to get desperate and end up frustrated because you don't succeed.

You mentioned you've fallen on the last crux several times
I’ve already had 4 more goes in which I’ve fallen in the last moves of the route, and in two other attempts very close to reaching the rest, all in the last two weeks. In another moment this would have generated me a big frustration, now analyzing everything, I can not be happier to see the progression that I have achieved. Previously, I had only been able to reach this last part once or twice in the whole season and it’s true that I had in my head that I could not fall in this section if I was sending, something that was real, to pass the first part I had to do everything perfect, with good condition and with everything in my favor, which was not going to tire me for the upper part, now I am able to get there with not so good condition or even climbing far outside what I consider perfection. Even if this makes me fall more up there, I am aware of this improvement, I feel a bit stronger physically but much stronger mentally.

Any idea how hard it could be? What can you compare it to?
The truth is that I don't really know what level it might be. I prefer not to think about the grade too much, until the day comes when I actually send it, since for me the most important thing is the path and the process until I get to chip that chain.

Surely you have some idea though?
I don't have many reference points in such high grades, so far I could only compare with 8 x 9b's, 2 x 9b/+ and 2 x 9b+ that I have done before. But after putting in a lot more work than on any other project, I'm sure it's harder than anything I tried before. But you never know, in the end, I am trying this on my own, and this makes it a much more difficult project in every way.

Why concentrate so much on this, and not repeat other tests, such as Perfecto Mundo?
I'm not really only focused on this route, I love to combine it with other projects and other styles of climbing. But after 200 days invested in this route, this is what motivates me the most for now. It is a huge personal challenge that I keep thinking about and dreaming that one day I will be able to complete it.

What makes this project so special to you Jorge?
I would say everything, from the personal challenge to the levels it demands off me in order to do it. I have been fighting for this for so long, and the more I try, the more it fuels my desire and motivation to keep at it until I get the send. I feel like it has become an addiction.