Paris 2024 Olympics LIVE: sport climbing day 3, Men's Lead & Women's Speed Finals
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10:07
Athletes are back in isolation. Mel Janse Van Rensburg will be the first out. The stadium is packed and ready to go!
10:01
The comp has officially begun. 20 athletes are below the wall observing the route. They've got 5 minutes to check out the beta and it's great seeing that working out the moves together. Sportsmanship at its best. Better still, the Olympic spirit at its best!
9:55
After the sweltering heat on Monday and Tuesday, Wednesday is slightly cloudy. Temperatures should be lower, 17°C at the moment, but the action will be as blazingly hot!
9:50
Lead is about to begin. Just a quick reminder about the Olympic scoring system which is significantly differentl from World Cup events. There are four scoring sections on the wall, and the higher they climb the more points they are awarded. Scores are assigned to each hold in descending order, starting from the top: the 10 highest holds, including the top, are worth four points each, followed by 10 holds that are worth three points each, 10 that are worth two points each, and 10 that are worth one point each. Any remaining hold before the start of the route has no point value. There will be signage on the wall to tell you the sections. An additional 0.1 points is awarded for using, but not controlling a hold.
7:36
Wednesday 7 August, day 3 of sport climbing at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Today the first, historic Speed medals will be awarded. Yes because while at the Tokyo Olympics only 1 medal per gender was awarded to the Combined discipline that comprised Speed, Boulder & Lead, here in Paris the number of medals has been increased to 2 per gender: one for the Speed and one for the Combined Boulder+Lead.
So today all eyes will be on Speed starting at 12:30, in particular on immortal Aleksandra Mirosław who two days ago set a new world record by stopping the clock after 6.06 seconds. But first up there's the men's Lead, on that beautiful wall on the left side of the arena. 100 points are on the table and will be added to those already earned in Boulder two days ago. The best 8 qualify for the final. Sorato Anraku currently sits firmly in first place with 69 points, ahead of Tomoa Narasaki with 54.4 points and Toby Roberts with 54.1 points.
Join planetmountain for the latest sport climbing news from the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Our reporting will begin shortly before 10:00. The athletes competing today are:
MEN'S BOULDER & LEAD
Jakob Schubert (AUT) - 1. World Championships Bern 2023
Colin Duffy (USA) - 2. World Championships Bern 2023
Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) - 3. World Championships Bern 2023
Toby Roberts (GBR) - 1. European Qualifier Laval 2023
Jesse Grupper (USA) - 1. Pan American Games Santiago 2023
Sorato Anraku (JPN) - 1. Asian Qualifier Jakarta 2023
Campbell Harrison (AUS) - 1. Oceania Qualifier Melbourne 2023
Mel Janse Van Rensburg (RSA) - 1. African Qualifier Pretoria 2023
Dohyun Lee (KOR) - 1. Olympic Qualifier Series
Sam Avezou (FRA) - 2. Olympic Qualifier Series
Adam Ondra (CZE) - 3. Olympic Qualifier Series
Alberto Ginés López (ESP) - 4. Olympic Qualifier Series
Hannes Van Duysen (BEL) - 5. Olympic Qualifier Series
Paul Jenft (FRA) - 6. Olympic Qualifier Series
Yannick Flohé (GER) - 8. Olympic Qualifier Series
Hamish Mcarthur (GBR) - 9. Olympic Qualifier Series
Sascha Lehmann (SUI) - 10. Olympic Qualifier Series
Alexander Megos (GER) - 11. Olympic Qualifier Series
Luka Potocar (SLO) - 12. Olympic Qualifier Series
Pan Yufei (CHN) - 13. Olympic Qualifier Series
WOMEN'S SPEED
Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (INA) - 1. World Championships Bern 2023
Emma Hunt (USA) - 2. World Championships Bern 2023
Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) - 1. European Qualifier Rome 2023
Piper Kelly (USA) - 1. Pan American Games Santiago 2023
Lijuan Deng (CHN) - 1. Asian Qualifier Jakarta 2023
Sarah Tetzlaff (NZL) - 1. Oceania Qualifier Melbourne 2023
Aniya Holder (RSA) - African Qualifier Pretoria 2023
Yafei Zhou (CHN) - 1. Olympic Qualifier Series
Aleksandra Kalucka (POL) - 2. Olympic Qualifier Series
Rajiah Sallsabillah (INA) - 3. Olympic Qualifier Series
Capucine Viglione (FRA) - 7. Olympic Qualifier Series
Manon Lebon (FRA) - 10. Olympic Qualifier Series
Leslie Adriana Romero Pérez (ESP) - 12. Olympic Qualifier Series
Beatrice Colli (ITA) - 13. Olympic Qualifier Series