Janja Garnbret grabs gold in Paris 2024 Olympic Games!
So here's the podium: Janja Garnbret, the queen of sport climbing, the GOAT, the best ever, call her what you will, lives up to expectations and here in Paris wins her second Olympic gold medal. Brooke Raboutou demonstrates all her innate class, makes almost no mistakes and secures silver. Bronze, fully deserved, goes to Jessica Pilz who achieves a historic result on the biggest stage in the world.
Our live reporting ends here. What an adventurous, tumultuous, exciting week it's been here at the Paris 2024 Olympics. Congratulations to all the Olympians who took part in this 6-day event, and to all those who have worked tirelessly - in front and behind the scenes - to make this such a smooth, impressive show of sport climbing at its very best. Of course, a big shout out to the route setters who, until into the early hours of every morning, were there tweaking away the boulders and routes to perfection. We hope you enjoyed our live coverage, see you latest in... LA 2028!
Rank | Bib | Nation | Name | Boulder | Lead | Total | ||
1 | 1 |
SLO
|
GARNBRET Janja
|
84.4 (1) | 84.1 (3) | 168.5 | ||
2 | 3 |
USA
|
RABOUTOU Brooke
|
84.0 (2) | 72.0 (5) | 156.0 | ||
3 | 4 |
AUT
|
PILZ Jessica
|
59.3 (6) | 88.1 (2) | 147.4 | ||
4 | 2 |
JPN
|
MORI Ai
|
39.0 (7) | 96.1 (1) | 135.1 | ||
5 | 19 |
GBR
|
McNEICE Erin
|
59.5 (4) | 68.1 (6) | 127.6 | ||
6 | 8 |
KOR
|
SEO Chaehyun
|
28.9 (8) | 76.1 (4) | 105.0 | ||
7 | 10 |
AUS
|
MACKENZIE Oceania
|
59.7 (3) | 45.1 (7) | 104.8 | ||
8 | 7 |
FRA
|
BERTONE Oriane
|
59.5 (4) | 45.0 (8) | 104.5 |
13:27
Janja Garnbret closes the sport climbing circle at the Paris Olympics 2024. We still don't know exactly what happened in Boulder, whether and how much she injured herself, but fingers crossed it won't ruin her competition. The answer comes quick and fast: she cruises upwards, quickly and precisely, almost as if she knows the route off by heart! Always looking like she's in total control, she reaches the headwall as the crowd explodes deliriously, but then she drops off close to the top. It's enough though, more than enough, for her second gold medal! Tokyo 2020, now Paris 2024! 168.5 points mean: Janja Garnbret gold, Brooke Raboutou silver, Jessica Pilz bronze!
13:21
It's the moment of truth for Jessica Pilz. How will she fare in her preferred discipline? In her second Olympic final? She climbs confidently, takes a few controlled risks, ploughs upwards, inexorably, incredibly! Somehow she manages to stay stuck to the wall, and with amazing determination falls, just below the top, after the climb of a lifetime. Back on the ground she explodes in tears of joy and will return home with a medal after finishing with 147.4 points. But what medal will it be? Behind Raboutou, it'll either be silver or bronze, depending on Garnbret now...
13:14
Brooke Raboutou enters the arena with a vibrant smile, this morning she performed superbly in boulder and now she wants to seal the deal with a medal. She climbs quickly without ever needing to rest, before you know it she's on the headwall, but then suddenly her energy runs out. Or a foot slips. Whatever. As she's lowered down she's unaware that she's guaranteed a medal! All the accumulated tension explodes in a moment of immense joy, she ends her Olympics with 156 points.
13:08
After almost 3 hours of competition, Ai Mori can now compete in her specialty. Will she climb higher than Chaehyun Seo who set the highpoint a few minutes ago? The wind picks up slightly and the grip improves a bit, while the Japanese climbs inexorably, almost weightlessly, ever upwards. She climbs all the way through the headwall, poises for the dyno, touches the top but fails to stick it! Standing ovation! What an incredible performance that puts her in provisional first. Incredible! She ends her Olympics with 135.1 points.
12:58
Oriane Bertone sets off, the crowd is totally behind her and lierally pushes her upwards as the 7000 spectators continues to shout her name at the top of their lungs! She climbs fast and determined, but halfway up her hand zips off the hold and much to everyone's amazement she ends her comp prematurely. She finishes with a total 104.5 points and, almost certainly, disappointment. A medal in Paris would have been a dream come true.
12:54
Oceania Mackenzie, the huge surprise of this Combined event in Paris, starts well but fatigue sets in and she falls low. She finishes with 104.8 total points and, certainly, an overal performance she can be proud of.
12:49
Erin McNeice enters the arena with a shy smile. She doesn't find the right feeling with the route though and struggles pretty much from the outset. Demonstration resilience and amazing determination she digs deep, battles to the headwall when we really thought she would have fallen many moves lower down. She ends her Olympics provisional first and with 127.6 points. What ana amazing experience here in Paris, we'll certainly be hearing more of her in the future!
12:42
Chaehyun Seo opens this last sport climbing chapter in Paris with her favorite discipline. She climbs confidently and gains one hold after the next, easily reaching the headwall. But up there evidently the moves get harder and three moves later she's off. What an excellent performance, but here 105 total points are probably not enough for a medal.
12:35
Women's Lead, Final Round, here we go! Chaehyun Seo kicks off the action with her last 6 minutes.
12:25
Route observation. 6 minutes available. The route looks amazing...
11:55
Now there's a break for about half and hou after this dramatic Boulder round. Everything seemed to be going Garnbret's way, until what looks like a finger injury on #4. Hopefully it's nothing serious. She leads with 84.4 points, just 0.4 points ahead of Brooke Raboutou. Everthing is still to play for in the Lead. See you at 12:30!
# | Bib | Nation | Name | Boulder #1 | Boulder #2 | Boulder #3 | Boulder #4 | Total | ||
1 | 1 |
SLO
|
GARNBRET Janja
|
25.0 | 24.8 | 25.0 | 9.6 | 84.4 | ||
2 | 3 |
USA
|
RABOUTOU Brooke
|
24.7 | 24.8 | 24.9 | 9.6 | 84.0 | ||
3 | 10 |
AUS
|
MACKENZIE Oceania
|
25.0 | 24.8 | 4.9 | 5.0 | 59.7 | ||
4 | 7 |
FRA
|
BERTONE Oriane
|
25.0 | 24.9 | 0.0 | 9.6 | 59.5 | ||
4 | 19 |
GBR
|
McNEICE Erin
|
24.9 | 25.0 | 0.0 | 9.6 | 59.5 | ||
6 | 4 |
AUT
|
PILZ Jessica
|
24.9 | 24.6 | 5.0 | 4.8 | 59.3 | ||
7 | 2 |
JPN
|
MORI Ai
|
0.0 | 9.7 | 24.8 | 4.5 | 39.0 | ||
8 | 8 |
KOR
|
SEO Chaehyun
|
9.5 | 4.8 | 4.8 | 9.8 | 28.9 |
11:44
Janja Garnbret ends this Boulder round with a problem that, surprisingly, really doesn't suit her. She struggles on the dyno start, the tension risis and she needs quite a few goes to get the zones. Something's not right. She's out of her comfort zone and continuously checks a finger on her left hand, perhaps she's injured? She makes a couple of heroic attempts and falls badly on the mats before ending with 84.4 points. She leads the provisional ranking, but at the cost of a dramatic last climb. Let's hope it's nothing serious.
11:38
After a flawless start, Jessica Pilz has struggled more during the second half of the comp, she doesn't have the explosiveness needed to reach the top of the fourth block. She has to settle for 59.3 points and provisional sixth.
11:35
Brooke Raboutou seems to have a newfound strength here in Paris this morning, has sent 3 so far with her usual smile. But like all the others she doesn't have that little extra to sent #4. She finishes with 84 points in provisional first. Brilliant Brooke!
11:30
Arguably Ai Mori has been provided with a round that certainly doesn't highlight all the work she's done to get here. She defends herself as best she can, and with an absolutely incredible top on #3 she finishes with just 34.5 points. Leaving a mountain to climb in Lead.
11:26
Janja Garnbret provides Paris with yet another climbing masterclass, leaving everyone speechless. Flashing #3 seemed absolutely impossible, but evidently impossible is nothing for the queen of climbing. Top, flash, 74.8 provisional points. Oriane Bertone fights to the bitter end on #4, pure grit and determination give way after 5 minutes of trying to a smile as she greets the home crowd. 59.5 her score, not as much as the boulder specialist would have liked.
11:23
Jessica Pilz tries to go footless on #3, had she sent like that she would surely have got yet another standing ovation.But it's not to be, she settles for a low zone, 54.5 points. Oceania Mackenzie on #4 want's to end with a bang but can't find the right body position for the dyno. She ends her comp with 59.7 points.
11:17
Erin McNeice wants to confirm her great performance in this round also on #4, she gives it 110% but fails to match the top hold. She's disappointed by she ends with a fantastic score of 59.5. Brooke Raboutou powers through the overhang #3 and after an infinite battles reaches the top. Her third so far! She smiles happily towards the crowd, as always.
11:13
Ai Mori has performed underpar up till now, but she redeems herself on #3, sending it in an epic, 2-minute battle! Amazing grit and determination. Chaehyun Seo on the last problem tries until the bitter end, one attempts after the next, but in the end she has to settle for the high zone, ending her run with only 28.9 points. Not enough.
11:08
Janja Garnbret on #2 misses a footswap on her first attempt, but doesn't repeat this mistake. 180° turn, gently does it, she waves to the crowd and tops it second go! 49.8 her score. Oriane Bertone throws in the towel on brutal #3, no points for her, 49.9 her provisional score.
11:04
Jessica Pilz fatica molto sulla placca #2 ma non vuole lasciare nessun punto indietro, i piedi restano incollati sui cambio-piede da cardio palma, alla fine fa top. 49.5 punti e un sorriso enorme. Oceania Mackenzie conferma che il terzo blocco è una gatta da pelare, i tracciatori hanno alzato l'asticella al massimo qui, chi riuscirà a domare questo boulder? Forse nessuno! Termina anche lei con la sola zona bassa 54.7 punti.
10:59
#2 is ideal for Brooke Raboutou but she needs three goes to reach the top, 49.5 points. Erin McNeice seems to meet her nemesis on #3, she doesn't have the brute force required for his severe test. 0 points for her from this problem, 49.9 total.
10:55
Wow this Boulder round is the most exciting in the entire competition! Superb boulders, tension, drama, upsets. It's all there. Ai Mori tries to redeem himself on #2, limits the damage by gaining the high zone, 9.7 points. Chaehyun Seo battles on #3 but struggles, the overhang in all the rounds has always been intensely difficult. She has to settle for the low zone. 19.1 total points
10:50
Janja Garnbret in cruise mode! Flashing #1 is nothing more than end of her warm-up ;-) Oriane Bertone dances across slab #2 with the audience totally behind her! She deciphers the sequence and places provisional first with 49.9 points!
10:48
Jessica Pilz finds the top in two attempts on #1, 24.9 points. On boulder #2 Oceania Mackenzie needs a couple of goes to learn the body position, then gives it her all and with a 180° leap grabs the top hold, looking towards the amazing audience that goes wild. 49.8 points.
10:44
Brooke Raboutou surprises us, needing 4 attempts to hold the initial run and jump on boulder #1, but the continues without hesitation and tops 24.7 her score. Erin McNeice absolutely superb on problem #2, she listens to her instinct and tiptoes across the precision slab to flash it! Somewhat surprised by this flash, she leads the ranking with 49.9 points
10:41
Ai Mori starts this round of competition with a bitter taste in her mouth, she can't even get started in #1, can't even do run and jump to reach the starting holds. A disappointing 0 points for her. Chaehyun Seo burns tries while trying to gain points on the slab boulder #2. She ends with 14.3 points.
10:37
The home crowd welcomes Oriane Bertone with a hugely impressive roar! She knows what needs to be done and does it, no hesitation whatsoever. Flash, 25 points. Now the other athletes in isolation must know this boulder is flashable, they'll certainly be feeling the pressure!
10:36
The first boulder is a great start to the comp and has to sent to stay in the running. Oceania Mackenzie makes short work of it and flashes the block, 25 points!
10:34
Now Erin McNeice steps into the arena to start her Olympic final. She mechanizes the lower section, then dynoes to the top without hesitation. What a great start 24.9
10:31
Chaehyun Seo first out on boulder #1, struggles to start but then gains the lower zone. The gains the high zone, but fails to match the top. 9.5 points
10:27
French legend Catherine Destivelle opens the final round!
10:22
Like every other day of this amazing week: brilliant sunshie and 7000 spectators. Paris at its finest!
10:19
Quick reminder about the scoring, the Olympic formula is slightly different from the World Cup/World Championship. There are two zones, the low zone which is worth 5 points and the high zone which is worth 10 points, and the top which is worth 25 points. The highest score achieved is awarded, minus 0.1 for every attempt needed to reach the highest point.
10:15
The athletes are on the mats for the presentation and observation period of 2 minutes for each of the 4 boulders. Here's the satarting list:
1. Chaehyun Seo
2. Erin McNeice
3. Oceania Mackenzie
4. Oriane Bertone
5. Ai Mori
6. Brooke Raboutou
7. Jessica Pilz
8. Janja Garnbret
9:08
Saturday 10 August, the huge, last day of sport climbing at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. This will end in style, with the Women's Boulder & Lead Combined. After gold won yesterday by 19-year-old Brit Toby Roberts, silver by 17-year-old Sorato Anraku and bronze by the tireless, 33-year-old Jakob Schubert, today all eyes are on the top 8 female athletes These are Janja Garnbret, Jessica Pilz, Brooke Raboutou, Ai Mori, Oriane Bertone, Oceania Mackenzie, Erin McNeice and Chaehyun Seo. Managing pressure and expectations will be tough, especially Garnbret who has cemented her place as the absolute favourite as she chases her second Olympic gold.
The last chapter begins at 10:15 and for those not in the French capital, here's the complete list of how to watch the Olympic Games, including Eurosport with the excellent Shauna Coxsey and Matt Groom. Alternatively, join the planetmountain team for our live reporting that will begin shortly before 10:15. It promises to be another amazing, historic competition. See you soon!