Yuji Hirayama, James Pearson, Cedar Wright climbing on the Faroe Islands
Last summer Yuji Hirayama, James Pearson and Cedar Wright travelled to the Faroe Islands intent of climbing Cape Enniberg, an extraordinary circa 800m high sea cliff situated on the northernmost point of the island. But before dealing with continuous drizzle, puking birds and the somewhat friable rock, the trio had to - much to their own surprise - obtain permission from the landowner. The climbers secured a meeting with the villagers to explain the project and received the green light for an attempt of Cape Enniberg. "At the end of the meeting they were so happy that the offered even to drive us out in their own boats." explained Peason, who described the climb as "a lot of loose rock, puking birds and grass, but also some genuinely good rock pitches. Starting at 10pm, we climbed in one push through the night, getting caught in a rain storm on the upper slopes. A very British game isn't it!"
Together with Caroline Ciavaldini they also added four new routes to the main cliff of Trælanípan on the island of Vagar. Pearson told planetmountain.com "We bolted 4 lines with the idea of giving local climbers a stepping stone from the only other developed sport climbing crag on the island (very good rock with close bolts) to the more adventurous climbs they can find on the many sea stacks and cliffs. Our lines are far from dangerous, but the bolts are sometimes far apart, with obligatory sections of climbing between them. These fpour routes were all around 5.12, or somewhere between 7c+ and 7b. It was really hard to tell as the the rock is still quite dirty, and so we were probably pulling a little harder than necessary, but with traffic they should clean up rather well. They were all long pitches, and sometimes split into two. There is potential for a ton of other routes, with some being very hard!"
Trælanípan Wall - Vagar Island
Slupp - 7b+ James Pearson
Gull - 7c+, 7c Caroline Ciavaldini
Black Sheep - 7a+, 7b+ Cedar Wright
Golden Ram - 7c, Yuji Hirayama