Terra di Mezzo: new Caporal aid route by Folco and Gaggini

At the start of October Valerio Folco and Cristina Gaggini made the first ascent of the aid route Terra di Mezzo (A3), Caporal Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Caporal, Valle dell'Orco, Valerio Folco

New route for Valerio Folco and Cristiana Gaggini on the Caporal in Valle dell'Orco, Italy. At the start of October this husband and wife team made the first ascent of the aid route 'Terra di Mezzo' up the Scudo del Caporal. The new line weighs in at A3 and starts to the left of the classic 'Quel Nuovo Mattino', crosses this at the second belay and then finishes up 'Aerospike' for the final 6th and 7th pitch.

Folco comments: "On the whole Terra di Mezzo is a nice line, fun and natural, never truly dangerous, with some Valle dell'Orco style free climbing. TdM is perhaps the easiest of my other 4 aid routes on this wall. It was first ascended by Cristina Gaggini and Valerio Folco at the start of October 2005, in four days of climbing, meals and good wine in the local osterie in the valley."


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photo: The Caporal with the route line of 'Terra di Mezzo' (ph arch. V. Folco).



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