Roland Hemetzberger frees Lichtblick 9a at Achleiten

German climber Roland Hemetzberger has made the first ascent of Lichtblick 9a at Achleiten, Austria, before repeating Wagnis Orange, the famous sports climb established in 1988 by Gerhard Hörhager at Geisterschmiedwand.
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Roland Hemetzberger making the first ascent of Lichtblick 9a at Achleiten, Austria
archive Roland Hemetzberger
In February Roland Hemetzberger made best use of excellent winter conditions to make the first ascent of what is now the hardest route at Austria's beautiful Achleiten crag: Lichtblick 9a. The new 40m stammina test joins other routes freed by the 24-year-old German nearby, such as Tunnelblick 8c+/9a and Goldenpearl 8b+/8c, both redpointed in 2012.

Not content, Hemetzberger paid some visits to the Weberwand in Oberaudorf where he realised that two its routes, initially climbed with artificial holds, could be climbed as mother nature had created them. Gipfelstürmer 8a+ now settles in at 8b+, while Conrad von Stich 7c+ is now, without the drilled pockets that have been filled in, 8b.

Last but not least, Hemetzberger repeated Wagnis Orange at the Geisterschmiedwand. This route was first climbed by Gerhard Hörhager back in 1988 and, at the time, was probably only the second 8c in the world. Despite its age, this intense climb is rarely repeated.




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