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Mathew Wright wrestles with Rhapsody in Scotland

British climber Mat Wright has repeated Rhapsody, the E11 7a trad climb located at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, first ascended by Dave Macleod in 2006.

Planetmountain

April 2024

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Mat Wright repeating 'Rhapsody', the E11 7a trad climb located at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, first ascended by Dave Macleod in 2006.

Ryan Balharry

Last Friday Britain's Mathew Wright successfully headpointed Rhapsody, the E11 7a trad climb located at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, first ascended by Dave Macleod in 2006. At the time the route ushered in a new era of difficulties in Great Britain and with its whopping E11 grade - the equivalent of 8c+ climbing but on gear - it was the most difficult in the British trad system. Currently there is only one E12 worldwide, Bon Voyage put up by James Pearson at Annot in France.

Wright started trying the line two years ago, shortly after repeating Neil Gresham's E11 Lexicon at Pavey Ark, and also Rhapsody's neighbour Achemine which, interestingly, happened to be Wright's first E9. Writing on his Instagram handle, he stated "I remember rocking up to Dumbarton at the time with this smug grin. I was ready take on the world. My entry to trad had so far been smooth. But, “Rhapsody” would stop me dead in my tracks. I was forced to hold my hands up and admit that I may have bitten off more than I could chew."

Over the last two years Wright has climbed extensively, establishing a number of hard routes himself, but he never lost sight of Rhapsody. He explained "This insane route is iconic for its immensely difficult headwall that’s guarded by an exposed runout." Wright returned to Dumbarton in early April and after toproping the crux section clean, immediately started making good links from below. He kept pushing his highpoint higher and higher, falling further in the process and , falling higher and higher each time. He explained "By the time I’ve placed all the gear and committed to the huge runout, I’m both pumped, and scared."

Climbing at his phyiscal and mental limit, last Friday he finally made it to the top of the volcanic plug of basalt unscathed. In doing so he has added his name to the short and impressive list of those who have climbed the line after Macleod, namely Sonnie Trotter (2008), Steve McClure (2008), James Pearson (2014), Jacopo Larcher (2016) and Gérome Pouvreau (2018).