Martin Keller is The Highlander at Sustenpass in Switzerland

Showing out of the ordinary dedication and commitment, Swiss climber Martin Keller has finally made the first ascent of The Highlander, 8C, a boulder problem he first attempted high up at Switzerland’s Sustenpass 13 years ago. The problem tackles a steep and crimpy line past circa 30 moves and finishes up Rêve de faire, an 8B problem put up by Fred Nicole in 1999. The crux arrives after some solid 8B+ climbing. As early as 2010 Keller managed to climb this easier version toping out straight in the middle of the boulder (Deadalus 8B+) and avoiding the harder moves of Highlander. Keller estimates he fell off the two crux moves of The Highlander over 200 times over the last six years prior to success.

Approaching 39 this year, at the start of winter Keller realized he needed a shift in his training regime. He concentrated on shorter sessions on rock in favour of a quick hangboard session once back home. He added some core-workouts, antagonist-training and stretching, took up running and biking three times a week and, crucially, cut down on his daily chocolate intake…

In March conditions up in the mountains were unusually warm and Keller immediately made his way to the 2000m high pass to make use of these great spring conditions. He explains "There was still a lot of snow. So I had to walk up two hours with my splitboard and shovel off snow for hours. But it was totally worth it. It’s truly beautiful up there when the road is closed. And thanks to some nice "Föhn-wind" the air was not too cold but super dry. Friction from hell. And I immediately could see the difference to the last years. The crux sequence suddenly felt super solid. Even easy. I finally managed to step up my game and leave that five-year plateau. I clearly was stronger then ever before."

On his second day of this early season Keller managed to stick the crux for the first time after 6 years failing on it. But out of amazement and exhaustion he then fell off the very last move. Sensing that the end was near, he itched nervously as a spell of bad weather rolled across the mountains, and then a few days later he finally stuck the swing. And, for the record, was so exhausted that he "barely made it up the 4a moves to the top".

Commenting after his 13-year courtship verging on the obsession, Keller commented "Arriving at the top I was so tired I had to sit/lay down for a few minutes. I literally was not able to stand. Sitting there on top of the boulder all alone in the middle of this natural amphitheater of big mountains I could see the moon rising. Nearly too much to take. After packing up and leaving the Highlander I may have had my best moment in all this years up there: The ride and hike down at 9:30pm in bright full moon light with my splitboard was just amazing. Words can not describe these moments."

In 2014 Keller made the first ascent of Gepresster Hase 8B+ at Sustenpass, while in 2012 he invested more than 100 days in freeing the 18-move Der mit dem Fels tanzt8C at Chironico in Switzerland.

Martin Keller - selection of boulder problems
The Highlander- Sustenpass, first ascent, 8C
Der mit dem fels tanzt - Chironico, first ascent, 8C
Gepresster Hase - Sustenpass, first ascent, 8C
Nike - Brione, first ascent, 8B+
Deadalus - Sustenpass, first ascent, 8B+
Ikarus - Sustenpass, first ascent, 8B+
The Dagger - Cresciano 8B+
Collateral - Chironico, first ascent without chipped hold, 8B+
Confessions - Cresciano, third ascent, 8B/+
No mystery - Chironico, first ascent after a hold broke, 8B
Supertussi - Brione, first ascent, 8B
Riverbed - Avers, 8B
Bogalagga - Chironico, 8B
La soucoupe - Chironico, 8B
One summer in paradise - Avers, second ascent