Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats Bibliographie (9b+) at Céüse

Making the most of the last possible weather window before cold and rain envelopes the crag, on the 16th of October Jorge Díaz-Rullo managed to repeat Bibliographie up at Céüse. This stunning 9b+ was first ascended in summer 2020 by Germany’s Alex Megos and provisionally graded 9c before being downgraded by half a notch by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2021. Subsequent repeats by Sean Bailey and Seb Bouin comfirmed the route's difficulty and, above all, its beauty.

The climber from Madrid first started working the line in summer 2021 and although he rapidly made good progress, the boulder crux proved highly problematic. He returned regularly in 2022 and also in spring 2023, but success eluded him. In addition to the technical difficulties, Díaz-Rullo had to battle hard against high temperatures this summer and then driving rain this autumn. Despite passing the boulder crux twice and falling off just 2 moves from the top he never gave up hope and on Monday afternoon, after more than 60 attempts, he finally clipped the anchor.

Writing on his Instagram handle after his redpoint, he stated "I never stopped dreaming, up until the moment the dream came true. Once again, I learnt a valuable lesson. Never lose hope, because everything is possible. Be your best version, work very hard, stay focused, motivated and above all have the patience and the moment will come."

Now that he has ticked this route off his list, the 24-year-old will be able to fully concentrate on his main project at Margalef. He made promising links last season, and the crag is finally coming into condition...

Díaz-Rullo thanks: Petzl, SCARPA, E9, Climbskin and Mushroompad

 

 

 

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