Alex Megos climbs Change (9b+) at Flatanger in just 5 days
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Germany's Alex Megos has made shockingly quick work of Change, Adam Ondra's 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway. The extremely overhanging, 55m outing was freed by the Czech in 2012 and is split into two distinct sections, a first pitch to an anchor which is given 9a+, and the second pitch extension which bumps the grade up to 9b+. At the time it was hailed as the hardest route in the world, a notch harder than Chris Sharma's Jumbo Love and First Round First Minute that were unrepeated at the time and that have now settled in at 9b. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent in 2020, France's Seb Bouin followed with the third in 2022. Megos, on amazing form after training intensely for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games and wishing to make amends after what he deemed a bitterly disappointing performance, sent the route after a mere 5 days of effort.
Alex congratulations are in order. Five days for a 9b+!?! That's mind-blowing!
Thanks! 5 days is indeed fast for a 9b+. I managed my other two in 16 and about 60 days. Perfecto Mundo at Margalef in 2018 and Bibliographie at Céüse in 2020.
How was the send? How much of a battle was it?
I was really at my limit. Especially because I hadn't really worked out all sequences perfectly yet. I hadn't even managed to send either of the two sections separately. The route is incredibly pumpy and I was often really near to dropping off. I was in it for at least 45 minutes, perhaps an hour.
The crag is famous for being conditions-dependent
The conditions were very good. It has rained every day since we arrived a week ago, but most of the time the conditions are still very good. Thankfully the route was dry, which is not always the case.
Can't remember sorry: is this your first time at Flatanger?
No, I've been here before, 9 years ago, in 2015. Adam and Jakob were there then too. Back then I only climb the classics, things like Odin's Eye, Muy Verdes. And I also made the first repeat of Thor's Hammer, freed by Adam in 2012.
You ascent comes about a few days after Paris, where you finished 13th. A result which you were unhappy with. How has this played a role in your success here in Flatanger?
Paris obviously made me really fit. I'm definitely in very good shape. But mentally, Paris really wore me out. I was more in the mindset of going on a vacation when I cam here. I wasn't really ready to invest a lot of time in something difficult. That's probably why it didn't take that long ;-)
You mentioned you used a kneepad. Adam didn't. Others have.
Yes, Adam climbed the route back theb without knee pads. I used one on my right knee. Everyone else who has tried and repeated it uses two knee pads and they're far better than I am at using the knee pads. There is a world of difference between them and me. I really do feel like I'm a beginner when it comes to using pads. Having said that, I reckon Change is more towards the lower end of 9b+ if you use knee pads.
Last question Alex: what's the route like?
Amazing. I'd also like to emphasize again what a visionary achievement it was for Adam to free this route 12 years ago. Don't forget, I also have the benefit of videos and all the beta, that helped me a lot. If, like Adam, you have no idea whether it will work in the first place, then a project like this can seem completely impossible in the beginning. His really was a really awesome ascent!
Alex Megos 9b or harder
2015 - First Round, First Minute (9b), Margalef, Spain. Third ascent
2016 - Fight Club (9b), Raven's Crag, Canada. First ascent
2018 - Perfecto Mundo (9b+), Margalef, Spain. First ascent
2020 - Bibliographie (9b+), Céüse, France. First ascent
2021 - Mejorando Imagen (9b), Margalef, Spain. Second ascent
2021 - King Capella, Furia de Jabali (9b), Siurana, Spain. Second ascent
2022 - Ratstaman Vibrations (9b), Céüse, France. First ascent
2022 - The Full Journey (9b), Margalef, Spain. First ascent
2024 - Sleeping Lion (9b), Siurana, Spain. Second ascent
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