Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c
Alexander Megos has left an indelible mark at the mecca of sport climbing, Ceüse in France, with his first ascent of the inordinately difficult Bibliographie for which the German has put forward the grade 9c. Bolted by Ethan Pringle, the route lies immediately to the right of famous Biographie, the world’s benchmark 9a+ freed by Chris Sharma in 2001 and repeated by Megos, somewhat incredibly, on his third attempt and in a single day in 2014.
Bibliographie now stands as only the second 9c in the world. The world’s first, Silence at Flatanger in Norway, was established by Adam Ondra in 2017 and still awaits a repeat and confirmation, while currently there are only four 9b+: Change put up by Adam Ondra in 2012, La Dura Dura established by Adam Ondra in 2013, Vasil Vasil freed by Adam Ondra once again in 2013, and Perfecto Mundo first ascended by Alexander Megos in 2018.
In order to achieve this result Megos’ track record is obviously a crescendo of athletic prowess, starting from 2013 when he climbed his way into history with the world’s first 9a onsight, Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain. After his first 9a+ a few days later - La Rambla on only his second attempt - his first 9b came in late 2015 with his repeat of First Round First Minute at Margalef. The following year he established his own 9b, Fight club in Canada, while 9b+ dates to 2018 with his Perfecto Mundo. Preliminary indication of the route's difficulty comes from the fact that the 26-year-old needed 16 days to free Perfecto Mundo. For Bibliographie he needed 60.
While it’s true that there are several other routes that were first ascended by Megos at Céüse, such as the 9a Et dieu créa la Flemme, his Bibliographie will certainly stand out as something truly special. And not only because it’s the most difficult route at the most beautiful crag in the world!
The hardest sport climbs in the world
2012 Change 9b+, Flatanger, Norway. First ascent: Adam Ondra
2013 La Dura Dura 9b+, Oliana Spain. First ascent: Adam Ondra. Second ascent: Chris Sharma, 2013
2013 Vasil Vasil 9b+, Sloup, Repubblica Ceca. First ascent: Adam Ondra
2017 Silence 9c Flatanger, Norway. First ascent: Adam Ondra
2018 Perfecto Mundo 9b+, Margalef, Spain. First ascent: Alexander Megos
2020 Bibliographie 9c, Ceuse, France. First ascent: Alexander Megos
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