Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Bibliographie, Alexander Megos' masterpiece at Céüse
The news is incredible but absolutely true: Stefano Ghisolfi has just completed the first repeat of Bibliographie, Alexander Megos' masterpiece at Céüse in France which the German climber suggested warrants 9c. As in the best of all fairy tales, Ghisolfi managed to repeat the king line a few hours ago on his last day in France, in what were apparently far from optimal conditions.
Having climbed two 9b+ previously - Perfecto Mundo at Margalef in Spain (2018) and Change at Flatanger in Norway (2020) - the 28-year-old first travelled to France in early June to lay his hands on the second 9c in the world, bolted by America’s Ethan Pringle and freed at the start of August 2020 by Megos.
Ghisolfi immediately set to work on the moves and extensively documented his progress as well as all the minute details of the route with his partner Sara Grippo and friend and filmmaker Enrico Veronese.
Various trips were made from Italy to France specifically for this climb but given the extreme difficulties, a redpoint seemed a distant mirage. But earlier this afternoon Ghisolfi showed us all, once again, why he is considered one of the best sport climbers in the world. More details to follow in due course.
Stefano Ghisolfi 9b or harder
11/2015 - Lapsus 9b, Andonno, Italy, first ascent
01/2017 - First Round, First Minute 9b, Margalef, Spain
11/2017 - One Slap 9b, Laghel, Arco
01/2018 - La Capella,9b, Siurana
12/2018 - Perfecto Mundo 9b+, Margalef, Spain
12/2019 - Stoking the Fire 9b, Santa Linya, Spain, first repeat
09/2020 - Change 9b+, Flatanger, Norway, first repeat
01/2021 - Erebor 9b/+, Eremo di San Paolo, Arco, first ascent
08/2021 - Bibliographie 9c, Céüse, first repeat
Links: FB Stefano Ghisolfi, IG Stefano Ghisolfi, La Sportiva, CAMP