Giovanni Placci blasts Bombardino at Arco, Italy
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Sara Grippo
When Stefano Ghisolfi made the first repeat of Bombardino at Bus de La Stria (Hotel Olivo) overlooking Arco a fortnight ago, he stated that his climbing partner Giovanni Placci had made an excellent attempt. 21-year-old Placci has now redpointed the line, too, making the third ascent after a mere 4 sessions of this long Adam Ondra test.
Like Ghisolfi, Placci used a completely different sequence from Ondra in order to avoid 3 extremely difficult moves which could lower the grade to 9a/+. Future repeaters will give a clearer indication, what is certain now is that "the line is just perfect and the rock is for sure one of the best in Arco." What is also certain is that Ondra’s adjacent 9b Bomba, attempted by both Placci and Ghisolfi, is "extreme".
The Italian Lead Cup 2022 winner and 2021 Italian Bouldering Champion has now sent three 9a+ in just two months: Bombardino on the 21st of December, and Trofeo dell'Adriatico at Bus de La Stria and Beginning at Eremo di San Paolo in November.
GIOVANNI PLACCI'S PROGRESSION
8b Shaolin 2018
8c Una vita nomada, Covolo 2019
8c+ Zauber fee, Arco 2019
9a Biologico, Rovereto 2020
9a+ Beginning, Arco, 2022
9a+ Trofeo dell'Adriatico, Arco 2022
9a+ Bombardino, Arco 2022
Giovanni thanks SCARPA and his trainer Stanislao Zama
