Dolomites new route: Gente di Mare, Lastoni di Formin

After the resounding success of La Grande Guerra and Pacchia, both climbed in 2003 on the Tofana, Marco Sterni and Mauro Florit concentrated their efforts on another wall in the Dolomites and in 2005 they made the first ascent of "Gente di Mare" (7a, 6c oblig, 350m) on the nearby Lastoni di Formin.

The new route runs close to the famous "Super tegolina" (first ascended by Francesco Piardi and Francesco Tremolada), is bolt protected and according to the first ascentionists (and those who have already repeated it) the route is destined to become highly popular... for those who master 6c and are used to airy routes.

Gente d Mare
Lastoni di Formin - West Face (Croda da Lago, Dolomites
Marco Sterni & Mauro Florit 14-15/07/05 & 06/08/05

"The mountain and the wall need no introduction, all you have to do is say one name: "Super tegolina". There are few climbers who like this type of route who haven't yet climbed it. At first glance "Gente di mare" may seem like its photocopy, but this isn't the case.

"Gente di mare" has its own logic and the first objective is to climb the fantastic detached pillar in three pitches. The 37m abseil into the void is beautiful too, and leads to the col between the pillar and the main face. The route then continues vertically just a few meters from the arête, moving up left and right past the obvious roofs and then directly up through the finishing overhangs.

The difficulties are similar to "Super tegolina" but on the whole the route is more demanding, as the obligatory climbing is harder and so too is the route finding through the crux sections. A set of medium/small camming devices is recommended for the final pitches which are easier but less protected.

The route is recommended for its beauty and the satisfying nature of the climbing itself, but we have to underline that 6c must be mastered to climb it."

by Marco Sterni