Bubu Bole repeats Mezzogiorno di fuoco in Sardinia

August summer holidays in Sardinia netted Mauro Bubu Bole the first repeat of "Mezzogiorno di fuoco", the route first ascended by Rolando Larcher, Roberto Vigiani and Maurizio Oviglia in two steps in 2006 and 2007 high on Punta Giradili, one of Sardinia's most famous cliffs.

Larcher had carried out the first free ascent in May this year, grading the 270m line 8b (7c obbligatory expo!). Bubu repeated the route after working the line for 4 mornings before the arrival of the roasting summer sun, accompanied by Sara Cirilli and Simone Sarti.

Although less demanding, Bubu Bole rates "Mezzogiorno di fuoco"  as more beautiful than another famous Larcher & Vigiani creation, Hotel Supramonte. Which means that the new line is a true work of art, thanks also to the thrifty use of bolts...


MEZZOGIORNO DI FUOCO by Bubu Bole
On 23 August I made the first redpoint repeat of Mezzogiorno di fuoco together with a Sara Cirilli from Trieste, already a saint after having spent two long days belaying me on the Larcher Vigiani in Marmolada in 2006.

August certainly isn't the best time of year to climb in Sardinia, but seeing that the seasons are no longer what they used to be, on Punta Giradili you can get cold even in summer! And this is exactly what happened to us that Thursday, with near winter temperatures and a storm at half-height! But the friction was great!

I tried the route for four mornings, since at 11 the sun arrived forcing us to ab down the fixed ropes and escape beneath the trees into the shade. On the first day I reached the third belay, then the fourth and fifth pitch, then the sixth and seventh, On the fourth day I went to free the second pitch, the hardest, followed by Sara on jumars. She was also armed with infinite patience and was extremely supportive, especially on the airy pendulums when she unclipped the quickdraws!
 
All attempts were alternated by days windsurfing in the Mediterranean’s most radical areas: I really smashed by windsurf when I grounded onto the reef! But it was worth it!

I really have to thanks Sara not only for the photos but also for all the backstage work, and also Simone Sarti for the two days he climbed with me on the route while Sara took photos sitting on the wooden plank above a truly exceptional void!

I'd like to pay my sincere compliments to the famous trio "Larcher Vigiani Oviglia" for this splendid line where one has to "climb" and not just "pull on holds" and where one often has to forget where the last quickdraw was and where the next one will be!

The route is certainly less demanding than "Hotel Supramonte" but thanks to its geological formation and the quality of the single pitches it is even more beautiful the "Hotel... well done... well done... well done!

A final note: I hope you're cheated on... you who stole my bag full of gear which I had left at the base of the route where (let's make this clear) no one ever passes by chance!

"Mezzogiorno di fuoco"
Punta Giradili first climbed between 2006 – 2007 by Rolando Larcher, Roberto Vigiani and Maurizio Oviglia.
First free ascent Rolando Larcher in May 2007,
270m, Max 8b 7c obl. expo. 7a+, 8b, 6c, 8a+, 7c+, 7c, 7a