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Barbara Zangerl explosive on Sprengstoff, 9a at Lorünser Wändle in Austria

At the crag Lorünser Wändle in Austria Barbara Zangerl has made the first repeat of the 9a Sprengstoff, freed by Jacopo Larcher in November 2020.

Planetmountain

April 2021

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Barbara Zangerl climbing Sprengstoff 9a at Lorünser Wändle in Austria

Jacopo Larcher

32-year-old Barbara Zangerl has climbed her second 9a, Sprengstoff at Lorünser Wändle in Austria. The route was bolted at the historic crag above the small village of Lorüns over 25 years ago by local hotshot Beat Kammerlander and, an open project, finally freed last November by Zangerl’s climbing and life partner Jacopo Larcher.

18 meters high and described as demanding "pure power endurance until the very top", Zangerl started trying it after Larcher's ascent, and last week fell off the last hard move where she believed it was impossible to fall from. The other day Zangerl redpointed the line, explaining it is "probably my hardest and one of the best single pitches I have climbed." These are interesting words, especially considering the importance of her other 9a: Speed Intégrale at Voralpsee, repeated in 2018.

Sprengstoff means explosive in German and the name was chosen carefully: the climb is located next to the Lorüns cement plant and Zangerl's hope is that the crag does not become part of the quarry. As was unfortunately the case of Zukunftsmusik, Beat Kammerlander's masterpiece freed in 1988 and one of the first 8b+ in the world.

Info: FB Barbara Zangerl, barbara-zangerl.at, La Sportiva

MULTI-PITCH CLIMBS
First female ascent of Alpine Trilogy
2013 Kaisers neue Kleider Wilder Kaiser, Austria (6c+, 7c+, 8a+/b, 7b+, 8b+, 8a, 6b, 8b+, 6c)
2013 Silbergeier Rätikon, Switzerland (8b, 7c+, 8a+, 7a+, 8b+, 7c+)
2012 End of Silence Berchtesgaden, Germany (7a+, 6c, 6a+, 6a, 7b+, 7c+, 7b, 8b, 8b/+, 7c, 7a+)

2017 Magic Mushroom, El Capitan, Yosemite (5.13d/14a)
2016 Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite (5.13d)
2016 New Age (7a, 7c, 8a+, 7a+, 7b)
2016 Golden Shower Verdon, France (7a+, 8b+, 8b+, 7c+/8a)
2015 El Nino, El Capitan, Yosemite (5.13c, 8 days ascent together with Jacopo Larcher)
2015 Unendliche Geschichte Rätikon, Switzerland (6a, 6b+, 6c+, 7b+, 7c+, 8b ,8b+, 6b, 7a+, 6b, 7b+, 7a)
2015 Bellavista Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites (7b, 6c+, 6a+, 7a+, 7b, 8b+, 7c+/8a, 7a, 6c, 6b Via Cassin to the top)
2015 La Ramirole, Verdon, France (8a+, 8a, 8b, 8a+, 7a)
2014 Moonlight Buttress, team ascent (Zion-Utah) (5.12+)
2012 Super Cirill, Ticino (7a+, 7a+, 7b+, 7c+, 6a+, 8a/+, 6c+, 6c, 6a+)
2012 Delicatessen, Corsica (8b, 7c+, 7c, 8a, 6c)
2011 Hotel Supramonte, Sardinia (7b+, 7c+, 8b, 8a+, 8b, 7c, 7a+, 7b, 7b, 7b, 6b)
2010 Via Acacia, Rätikon (7+, 9, 9-, 8-, 9-, 9-, 7+, 8, 9+)

TRAD CLIMBS
E9/10 8b
2020 Greenspit, Valle dell’Orco, Italy, first female ascent
2019 The Path, Lake Louise, Canada
2017 Gondo Crack Cippo, Switzerland, first repeat, first female ascent
2014 Prinzip Hoffnung Vorarlberg, Austria, first female ascent

E9/6c (r8b)
2016 Achemine Dumbarton, Scotland, first repeat

E8/6b (r8a)
2016 Requiem Dumbarton, Scotland

SPORT CLIMBING
9a
2021 Sprengstoff, Lorünser Wändle, Austria
2020 Instructor 8c+/9a, Bregenzerwald, Austria
2018 Speed Intégrale, Voralpsee, Svizzera

8c+
2020 - Unleashed 8c+ Koblach, Austria
2017 Chikane Siurana, Spain
2016 Harry’s dirty brother Vorarlberg, Austria
2015 Helel Ben Schachar Vorarlberg, Austria

8c
2017 Gondo Crack Cippo, Switzerland, first ascent
2016 Standhaft Vorarlberg, Austria
2015 Schwarzer Schwan Ötztal, Austria
2015 Nobody is perfect
2014 Mind control Oliana, Spain
2014 Fish eye Oliana, Spain
2011 Erntezeit Vorarlberg, Austria

BOULDERING
8B
2008 FFA Pura vida Magic Wood, Avers, Switzerland

8A+/8A
2005 X-Ray Silvretta, Austria
2008 Zwiederwurtz Silvretta, Austria