Barbara Zangerl sends Speed Intégrale at Voralpsee, her first 9a

It's astounding how much the mind influences sports performance. How stress or anxiety can negatively impact your climbing even if your body is 100% and, conversely, how close you can get to your physical limit if your have the right mindset. One striking example in recent years: Alexander Megos, who in 2013 made the world’s first 9a onsight almost by accident. The German had wanted to try La Rambla that day but, not knowing precisely where the route was, he decided to check out Estado Critico, just to see what the moves were like...

Another example now comes from Barbara Zangerl who we have repeatedly described as one of the most versatile rock climbers in the world. The Austrian has onsighted 8b, climbed 8B boulder, teetered her way up dangerous trad climbing up to E10 and repeated a vast selection of some of the hardest alpine sports climbs across the Alps and big wall climbs up El Capitan in Yosemite. And, as of yesterday, her sports climbing curriculum also boats 9a redpoint.

The 29-year-old made her way to Voralpsee in Switzerland where she had been working Speed ​​Intégrale, the 9a extension freed by Cedric Lachat in 2010 to Beat Kammerlander’s 8c+ Speed. Against all expectations, having completed her nightshift at 7am at Bludenz hospital where she works as assistant radiologist, she clipped the anchors in the evening. An interesting detail: she had never sent Speed before and, after having trained specifically for the extension, she powered her way straight to the upper chain.

Zangerl redpointed Speed ​​Intégrale after about 15 days of attempts which, after some tentative runs in 2017 to the third bolt, she began in earnest towards the end of March. “Although the technical crux move is where a hold broke on Speed a few years ago, for me on the redpoint burn the crux was a huge side push and reach right at the top” Zangerl told planetmountain.com. Usually she only made two attempts a day but “yesterday, even though I felt tired, I made three attempts. Strange….”




Info: FB Barbara Zangerl, Instagram Barbara Zangerl, barbara-zangerl.at, La Sportiva

MULTI-PITCH CLIMBS
First female ascent of Alpine Trilogy
2013 Kaisers neue Kleider (Wilder Kaiser) (6c+,7c+,8a+/b,7b+,8b+,8a,6b,8b+,6c)
2013 Silbergeier (Rätikon) (8b,7c+,8a+,7a+,8b+,7c+)
2012 End of Silence (Berchtesgaden) (7a+,6c,6a+,6a,7b+,7c+,7b,8b,8b/+,7c,7a+)

2017 Magic Mushroom, El Capitan, Yosemite (5.13d/14a)
2016 Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite (5.13d)
2016 New Age (7a, 7c, 8a+, 7a+, 7b)
2016 Golden Shower Verdon (7a+,8b+,8b+,7c+/8a)
2015 El Nino, El Capitan, Yosemite (5.13c, 8 days ascent together with Jacopo Larcher)
2015 Unendliche Geschichte (Rätikon) (6a,6b+,6c+,7b+,7c+,8b,8b+,6b,7a+,6b,7b+,7a)
2015 Bellavista (Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites) (7b,6c+,6a+,7a+,7b,8b+,7c+/8a,7a,6c,6b Via Cassin to the top)
2015 La Ramirole, Verdon (8a+,8a,8b,8a+,7a)
2014 Moonlight Buttress, team ascent (Zion-Utah) (5.12+)
2012 Super Cirill, Ticino (7a+,7a+,7b+,7c+,6a+,8a/+, 6c+,6c,6a+)
2012 Delicatessen, Corsica (8b,7c+,7c,8a,6c)
2011 Hotel Supramonte, Sardinia (7b+,7c+,8b,8a+,8b,7c,7a+,7b,7b,7b,6b)
2010 Via Acacia, Rätikon (7+,9,9-,8-,9-,9-,7+,8,9+)

TRAD CLIMBS
8b E9/10
2017 Gondo Crack first repeat, first female ascent (Cippo, Switzerland)
2014 FFA Prinzip Hoffnung (Vorarlberg)

E9/6c (r8b)
2016 first repeat Achemine (Dumbarton / Scotland)

E8/6b (r8a)
2016 Requiem (Dumbarton / Scotland)

SPORT CLIMBING
9a
2018 Speed ​​Intégrale, Voralpsee

8c/+
2017 Chikane (Siurana)
2016 Harry’s dirty brother (Vorarlberg)
2015 Helel Ben Schachar (Vorarlberg)

8c
2017 Gondo Crack first ascent (Cippo, Switzerland)
2016 Standhaft (Vorarlberg)
2015 Schwarzer Schwan (Ötztal)
2015 Nobody is perfect
2014 Mind control (Oliana)
2014 Fish eye (Oliana)
2011 Erntezeit (Vorarlberg)

BOULDER
8B 
2008 FFA Pura vida (MagicWood, Avers)
8A+/8A
2005 X-Ray (Silvretta)
2008 Zwiederwurtz (Silvretta)