Barbara Zangerl on top climbing form in Vorarlberg, Austria

Unable to travel to Yosemite because of Coronavirus restrictions, when Austria eased the lockdown Barbara Zangerl invested her time climbing close to home in the Vorarlberg region where she recently redpointed two heavyweights: Unleashed 8c+ and Instructor 8c+/9a

Unleashed is located close to Koblach and was freed by Mark Ammann with a long run out past the bouldery crux. Figuring out the moves from below past huge reaches proved difficult, and the 31-year-old needed about 9 days of attempts. Instructor on the other hand is located at Bregenzerwald and, after having been bolted by Mathis Rochus, was freed last year by Jacopo Larcher. The route sports a full 45 meters of pure resistance, for which Zangerl needed 17 attempts spread out over 7 days.

These two climbs are just the latest of a myriad of hard sport climbs Zangerl has sent in the past, which include the 9a Speed ​​Intégral climbed in 2018 at Voralpsee in Switzerland. She is, without a shadow of doubt, one of the most versatile climbers of all having onsighted up to 8b and redpointed 9a, climbed 8B boulder and E10 trad, as well as repeating some of the hardest multi-pitches in the Alps. Furthermore, on El Capitan she has free climbed more big walls than any other woman, having successfully redpointed El Niño, Zodiac, Magic Mushroom, Pre-Muir and The Nose. While it’s unclear what she and her partner Jacopo Larcher would have tried in Yosemite this spring, sporting this form it certainly wouldn’t have been a walk in the national park.

Info: FB Barbara Zangerl, barbara-zangerl.at, La Sportiva

MULTI-PITCH CLIMBS
First female ascent of Alpine Trilogy
2013 Kaisers neue Kleider (Wilder Kaiser) (6c+,7c+,8a+/b,7b+,8b+,8a,6b,8b+,6c)
2013 Silbergeier (Rätikon) (8b,7c+,8a+,7a+,8b+,7c+)
2012 End of Silence (Berchtesgaden) (7a+,6c,6a+,6a,7b+,7c+,7b,8b,8b/+,7c,7a+)

2017 Magic Mushroom, El Capitan, Yosemite (5.13d/14a)
2016 Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite (5.13d)
2016 New Age (7a, 7c, 8a+, 7a+, 7b)
2016 Golden Shower Verdon (7a+,8b+,8b+,7c+/8a)
2015 El Nino, El Capitan, Yosemite (5.13c, 8 days ascent together with Jacopo Larcher)
2015 Unendliche Geschichte (Rätikon) (6a,6b+,6c+,7b+,7c+,8b,8b+,6b,7a+,6b,7b+,7a)
2015 Bellavista (Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites) (7b,6c+,6a+,7a+,7b,8b+,7c+/8a,7a,6c,6b Via Cassin to the top)
2015 La Ramirole, Verdon (8a+,8a,8b,8a+,7a)
2014 Moonlight Buttress, team ascent (Zion-Utah) (5.12+)
2012 Super Cirill, Ticino (7a+,7a+,7b+,7c+,6a+,8a/+, 6c+,6c,6a+)
2012 Delicatessen, Corsica (8b,7c+,7c,8a,6c)
2011 Hotel Supramonte, Sardinia (7b+,7c+,8b,8a+,8b,7c,7a+,7b,7b,7b,6b)
2010 Via Acacia, Rätikon (7+,9,9-,8-,9-,9-,7+,8,9+)

TRAD CLIMBS
8b E9/10
2017 Gondo Crack first repeat, first female ascent (Cippo, Switzerland)
2014 FFA Prinzip Hoffnung (Vorarlberg)

E9/6c (r8b)
2016 first repeat Achemine (Dumbarton / Scotland)

E8/6b (r8a)
2016 Requiem (Dumbarton / Scotland)

SPORT CLIMBING
8c+
2017 Chikane (Siurana)

8c/+
2016 Harry’s dirty brother (Vorarlberg)
2015 Helel Ben Schachar (Vorarlberg)

8c
2017 Gondo Crack first ascent (Cippo, Switzerland)
2016 Standhaft (Vorarlberg)
2015 Schwarzer Schwan (Ötztal)
2015 Nobody is perfect
2014 Mind control (Oliana)
2014 Fish eye (Oliana)
2011 Erntezeit (Vorarlberg)

BOULDER
8B 
2008 FFA Pura vida (MagicWood, Avers)
8A+/8A
2005 X-Ray (Silvretta)
2008 Zwiederwurtz (Silvretta)