Arco rock climbing: Mescalito on Colodri, the classic multi pitch climb by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori

"Bold climb whose name is reminiscent of undertakings in Yosemite Valley, up El Capitan. This however is a wonderful free climb." These are the words used in by 1984 Roberto Bassi to describe the multi-pitch rock climb Mescalito in his cult guidebook "Arrampicare in Valle di Sarca, on the limestone white of Arco and surroundings." How right he was!

The climb established ground-up and completed on 25 November 1982 by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori up the Rupe Secca, the large rock face that forms part of Cima Colodri, is a marvellous outing just a stone's throw from the center of Arco. The line is renowned as one of the most beautiful rock climbs in the entire Sarca valley, initially graded VI+/A2 but nowadays, with the addition of bolts at the belays and the pitches, it’s been slightly "tamed" and results in a great 260m climb (9 pitches) up to 6c/6c +.

The rock is fairly polished due to the numerous repeats, in particular the corner at the start, a section on pitch two and the crux on pitch 3. Generally speaking though the route is still great fun. An absolute classic dating back to the early 80’s that even today proves exciting.

by Carlo Cosi, mountain guide

www.carlocosi.com


TOPO: Via Mescalito, Rupe Secca, Colodri, Arco