Torre Egger, Norwegians climb new route in Patagonia

On his site pataclimb.com the Patagonian expert and great alpinist Rolando Garibotti reports that the Norwegians Bjørn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied have forged an important new line up the magnificent south Face of Torre Egger. Aartun and Lied climbed their route – as yet unnamed, 950m high of which 350m covered new terrain with difficulties up to 6b+ A1 AI6 - alpine style over two days. They bivied at the Egger-Torre col (the legendary Col of Conquest) on their approach, then climbed up to the summit and descended on their second day.

Garibotti explains "the climbing involves much steep ice with sections over 90º that can be best described as the Cerro Torre “Ragni route on steroids”. In sport climbing Chris Sharma has used the term “King Line” to describe beautiful lines that stand out because of their unique appeal. Bjorn-Eivind and Ole's still un-named line is most definitely the alpine ice version of a Sharma “King Line”. A very proud line that for its uniqueness may well be the route of the season here in Patagonia."

While Aartun and Lied may not be household mountaineering names, their Patagonian record is not without unusual depth: in 2008 Aartun dashed up the Ragni route from the Niponino camp in a mere 13 hours together with Cullen Kirk (USA), while in 2009 Lied established The Corkscrew on Cerro Torre.


UPDATE 04/01/2012
- Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Venas Azules on Torre Egger in Patagonia. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti

- Corrado 'Korra' Pesce, from No Siesta to Cerro Torre. The interview and meeting with Rolando Garibotti