Simon Gietl frees 'Blutsbrüder' on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites

After years of hibernation, all of a sudden in autumn 2022 the imposing Torre Trieste on Mount Civetta in the Italian Dolomites was buzzing with action. The enormous south face was targeted, incredibly, by two very strong teams who completely by chance found themselves contending one of the most beautiful towers in the Dolomites: on one side Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini, on the other Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer. After the initial surprise, two beautiful climbs were established, Enigma by Baù, Beber and Tondini freed in the summer 2023, and Blutsbrüder, freed this summer by Gietl.

After almost two years of intensive training and attempts carried out with various climbing partners such as Vittorio Messini, Andrea Oberbacher, Davide Prandini and Simon Messner, Gietl managed to free all 21 pitches of the route, individually and over a period of several days. A free ascent in single day is still outstanding therefore. The new line has been called Blutsbrüder, is 650m high, graded 8b max 7b obligatory, and is protected in a traditional manner. All the pegs and threads used during the first ascent have been left in-situ; for the free ascent Gietl added two pegs on the crux pitch, the 12th, and a pecker on the 7c pitch, the 19th.

Speaking to planetmountain after the ascent, the 40-year-old mountain guide said, "For me, this was a unique and unforgettable journey, with its ups and downs. Never before has a first ascent tested me this much. But for everything I had to give, I received just as much in return, and I am extremely grateful and happy for this!

Although the focus was on the first ascent and the subsequent free ascent, I must admit that the moments with Vito and Matthias while establishing the line were the true heart and soul of our adventure. It was a beautiful experience with friends who share the same dream. We swung leads as we established the various pitches, together we felt the excitement which was tangible. Every meter that we laboriously climbed was cause for celebration, a small step towards the summit that filled us with joy and pride. The laughter we shared, the sweat in our eyes and the indescribable friendship made this an unforgettable experience."