Back in Black climbed on Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher

A year after establishing La Perla Nera on Torre Colfosco in the Dolomites, South Tyrol's Simon Gietl returned to Val Badia earlier this summer to establish a new climb about 30 meters to the right. Called Back in Black, the 410m outing was established with Andrea Oberbacher ground-up and - as usual for Gietl - without bolts.

The 38-year-old mountain guide told planetmountain “I saw the line every time I drove up to Passo Gardena, and of course also while climbing La Perla Nera with Florian Harasser. I was curious to see if the rock was the same excellent quality. And it is!"

On the first day Gietl and Oberbacher climbed to the end of the crux pitch but then, since the terrain became steeper making a retreat far more complicated, they descended. On the second day they climbed everything free up to their high point, from where Gietl then completed and cleaned the crux pitch. This 40m section provides IX climbing, is protected with threads and 8 pegs, and was freed by Gietl on his second attempt. Another grade VIII- pitch led them to easy terrain, with two more grade IV pitches took them to the endo of the difficulties altogether.

During the first ascent Gietl hung off cliffhooks only to place pegs or improve his cam placements, while all pegs used during the ascent have remained insitu. In addition to the 8 pegs on the crux pitch, 1 peg is located on the fourth pitch; the rest of the route is protected with cams, nuts and threads. 8 of the 10 belays are on threads.

Those wishing to repeat the route should take cams up to #3, 2 x 60m ropes. For the descent: at the end of the route scramble up easy terrain for circa 200m to reach the path that leads down into Val Mezdì and then return to the Pisciadù parking lot.

TOPO: Back in Black, Torre Colfosco, Dolomites