Renegade, new rock climb up Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites

Tofana has always been a special place, comprised of of sunny faces and often excellent rock. I’ve climbed a lot here in the past, sometimes alone, other times with friends or clients.

In the height of summer its pillars and paths along the scree slopes brim with climbers and walkers, intent of climbing their projects or simply enjoying the splendid view across the Dolomites. From late autumn onwards - as in most parts of this mountain chain - everyone leaves and the peaks remain alone and empty. The hysterical cries of climbers high up on the faces die down, the skies become clearer, the colors sharper and it seems as if you’re suddenly climbing in quite distant lands. During this period, only a few rays of sunshine are needed to feel the rough rock beneath your fingers. This light, the scenery and the ever-present chamois on the scree below are sufficient reasons to spend hours up on these walls.

And so it was that last December my friend Iwan and I decided to explore the compact slabs and dreamlike rock to the right of the famous Aspettando la vetta, put up by local climber Massimo Da Pozzo.

Armed with just a handful of pegs, on the first few pitches we stumbled across signs of previous passage, with some improvised belays as people abseiled off Mox’s route. The rock wasn’t concrete but nevertheless allowed for some pleasant climbing.

Once we’d reached the line we’d identified from below, the holds became uniquely compact and the moves were amazing. We headed towards the enormous yellow niche in the middle of the pillar. From here an exciting, airy move opened the doors to the beautiful black slabs that characterise the face.

Almost all belays are equipped with excellent threads and it is possible a abseil down the route. We left all the gear instu and the route was cleaned of loose rock for future ascentionists. Some pegs were placed to indicate the line of ascent.

Once at the ledge, you can exit via the Ferrari route or the classic Spigolo arete.

by Peter Moser

Thanks to the sponsor Asolo for the support.


TOPO: Renegade, Tofana, Dolomites