New route on Roccia Nera, Monte Rosa

On 28/02/2003 the two Italian mountain guides Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi opened a newline up the North Face of Roccia Nera (4075 m, Monte Rosa).
On 28/02/2003 the two Italian mountain guides Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi opened a new line up the North Face of Roccia Nera (4075 m, Monte Rosa). The 500 m mixed route encounters difficulties up to IV+/5, (TD+) and climbs a coulouir to the right of the “Grassi-Bernardi” .


Il Rosso ed il Bianco

FA: Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi 28/02/2003
Grade: IV+/5, (TD+)
Length: 500 m.
Orientation: North
Getting there: From the bivouac Rossi-Volante continue past Porta Nera beneath the east facing arete, reach the base of a snowy slope and cross the bergschrund.
Descent: descend down the Roccia Nera normal route to the bivouac.
Gear: 5-6 ice screws (some short), 1 set of friends. No gear left in-situ. Trad belays.
Description: cross the bergschrund beneath an obvious red rocky outcrop. Climb left around this and follow the gully to the slope above (65°) up mixed cliimbing to the obvious ridge. Follow this to the start of an icy corner – climb the narrow sliver for 160m to reach the cornice beneath the summit ridge.

Thanks to Montura, Kayland and Ferrino

Il Rosso ed il Bianco takes the right-hand line up the North Face of Roccia Nera. Grassi-Bernardi takes line A.
Roberto Rossi climbing IL Rosso ed il Bianco



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