New route on Roccia Nera, Monte Rosa
On 28/02/2003 the two Italian mountain guides Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi opened a newline up the North Face of Roccia Nera (4075 m, Monte Rosa).
On 28/02/2003 the two Italian mountain guides Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi opened a new line up the North Face of Roccia Nera (4075 m, Monte Rosa). The 500 m mixed route encounters difficulties up to IV+/5, (TD+) and climbs a coulouir to the right of the Grassi-Bernardi . Il Rosso ed il Bianco FA: Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi 28/02/2003 Grade: IV+/5, (TD+) Length: 500 m. Orientation: North Getting there: From the bivouac Rossi-Volante continue past Porta Nera beneath the east facing arete, reach the base of a snowy slope and cross the bergschrund. Descent: descend down the Roccia Nera normal route to the bivouac. Gear: 5-6 ice screws (some short), 1 set of friends. No gear left in-situ. Trad belays. Description: cross the bergschrund beneath an obvious red rocky outcrop. Climb left around this and follow the gully to the slope above (65°) up mixed cliimbing to the obvious ridge. Follow this to the start of an icy corner climb the narrow sliver for 160m to reach the cornice beneath the summit ridge. Thanks to Montura, Kayland and Ferrino |
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