New climbs in the Brenta Dolomites

Two new routes, demanding and beautiful, have been established in the Brenta Dolomites by Massimo Faletti. The first is called Via Ladriand ascends the monumental Campanile Basso via a line which starts circa 200m to the left of the Via Normale. Since Ladri climbs above the famous Bocchette via ferrata and the Via Normale, it was opened in late autumn and early winter - from 2005 onwards - to avoid rocks falling onto these highly popular summer outings. Faletti was helped by Cristian Brenna and the brothers Silvestro and Tomas Franchini and now the route offers "cleaned rock, beautiful in most parts, with the final pitches breaching outstanding rock" with difficulties up to 7a. According to the Italian Mountain Guide, the lower section of the route is fairly well-equipped, while pro becomes more run-out higher up, with the final two belays needing backing up. All things considered, this route should not be underestimated and is recommended for experienced climbers only.

While the genre is completely different, the Brenta Dolomites are the scene of Faletti's second route, Brothers up Cima Grostè. A "decidedly demanding" mixed climb, already repeated by Gianni Canale who described it as "stupendous". As the name suggests, Brothers was established together with Massimo's brother Giordano on 14 December 2012 immediately to the left of mixed climb established by Tiziano Canella. The first of the three pitch route happens to be the crux: 45m of M6+ protected only by a thread and a handful of totemcams and wires. The route faces north and is located at an altitude of 2700m... Despite its proximity to the cable car, the same recommendation holds true: "for experienced alpinists only."


TOPO: Ladri, Campanile Basso

TOPO: Brothers, Cima Grostè