New Arco multipitch rock climb at Mandrea

Ivan Maghella, the "magician", noticed the line in 2015. While abseiling in he realised that the upper section, where the limestone transforms from grey to yellow, could hold another route. He returned the following week and, climbing ground-up on his own, started to forge the first three pitches. Due to personal commitments, including the responsibilities of being a climbing instructor, the project ground to a temporary halt.

The years went by but the desire to complete that beautiful, logical line remained... In November 2018 he asked me to give him a hand and finish off the line, using the usual approach: ground-up, bolting wherever we used cliffhooks . At the end of the month we’d already added another two pitches but then with the bitter cold, damp clouds and the onset of winter we were forced to postpone our efforts once again. March brought with it warm weather and we completed the line, 270m split into 9 pitches. On 28 March the route was cleaned and freed. It’s called Testa tra le nuvole, Head in the Clouds, and provides max 7a+ and 6c S2 obligatory climbing

The wall receives the shade in the afternoon as of 14.00 and the route provides continuous difficulties with elegant climbing past pockets and goutte d’eau. Some pitches are overhaning, so there’s a bit of everything! Only the last pitch is shared with another climb, Altro Giro di Giostra, put up by Maghella in 2014. Descend by abseil down the route or via the marked path.

Thanks in advance to Emanuela Zarantonello and Irene Melai for their support, and enjoy the climb!

by Alessandro Arduini

TOPO: Testa tra le nuvole, Mandrea, Arco