Miyar Valley, new climbs by Schaar and Peschel in India

In August and September 2011 Austrians Gerhard Schaar and Ines Peschel visited the Miyar Valley in the Himachal Pradesh region of Northern India where thanks to excellent conditions they successfully climbed three new routes up hitherto unclimbed peaks. Furthermore, they established another two new routes and carried out the first repeat of another two climbs. 

Schaar stated that they were initially attracted by the "various peaks up to 6.300m, lots of first ascent possibilities on amazing granite towers and ridges and relatively uncomplicated access". The ascents are listed below, while the full trip report can be downloaded here.


Miyar Valley climbs
1. Best of both sides 5.9, 350m, Torro Peak 4800m, 1st ascent  
2. Gutzele Peak 5505m, 5.9 R, 1st ascent (route and mountain)  
3. Gou Gou Ridge 5.9, 400m Gou Gou Peak ca. 5100m 1st ascent (route and mountain)  
4. Trident Ridge 5.9 R, 700m, Premsingh Peak 5200m, 1st repeat 
5. Four seasons in one day 5.10d, 600m, West Ridge - Iris Peak 5350m, 1st ascent  
6. Never ending story 5.9 , 1000m, Kurt Albert Peak 5900m 1st ascent, probably also first ascent of the mountain (to be confirmed)!)  
7. Shangri La Ridge 5.10 c R, 600m, Korklum Gou 5.650m, 1st repeat 


Miyar Valley - location and brief alpine history
by Gerhard Schaar

The Miyar Valley is located in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, on the border of the region of Zanskar. It starts north of the small city Udaipur and winds itself up for about 100km towards the Kang La Pass (5350m), where you can reach Padum.

Two well known 6000m peaks are located in the lower section of Miyar Valley, Phabrang 6172m and Menthosa 6443m. These peaks were climbed by Japanese expeditions in the '60s and '70s. The upper Miyar Valley was first discovered in 1991 by the Italian Paolo Vitali. He had no practical information but a small picture of a geographical expedition, showing a small rock tower. During the course of this expedition he discovered the amazing side valleys, Takdung Valley, Chhudong Valley and Dali Valley with their amazing climbing possibilities. In the following years more Italian expeditions followed by Massimo Marcheggiani, Mario Manica and Bruno Moretti, all of them providing us with useful information about the area.

From 2000 onwards one or two expeditions come to the region every year, achieving remarkable first ascents. We benefited a lot from information provided by Igor Koller and Vlado Linek, and also by Andrej Grmovsek. In particular Andrej’s first ascent Shangrila Ridge was a route we desperately wanted to repeat, because it is such a beautiful, obvious line, that immediately catches your attention when you see a picture of the main Miyar Valley.

Thanks to: Millet Expedition Fund and Austrialpin