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Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy

On 26 January 2016 at Bus del Quai di Iseo (Italy) Dutch climber Marianne van der Steen managed to flash Kamasutra, a drytooling climb graded D13+.

Planetmountain

January 2016

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Marianne Van der Steen: Ice Climbing World Championship 2015

Harald Wisthaler / Ice Climbing World Championship 2015

After the competition at Saas Fee, the world’s élite currently taking part in the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit is slowly traveling to Rabenstein in Italy, where the final stage will begin on Saturday morning. During their travels from Switzerland to South Tyrol many of these athletes have stopped off at different crags, including the testing drytooling haven Bus del Quai di Iseo. It was there that, two days ago, Dutch climber Marianne van der Steen managed to flash Kamasutra, a total dry climb bolted by Matteo Rivadossi considered, at D13+, one of the hardest of its kind in Italy.

After warming up van der Steen observed Angelika Rainer on Kamasutra, a climb the Italian champion had already redpointed in January 2014. Then Canada’s Gordon McArthur attempted the line but he fell just short of the chain. His ice axe remained stuck in a hold and so the Dutchwoman decided to give the route a go, mainly to remove the ice axe. And so, without any expectations and under no pressure whatsoever, van der Steen climbed steadily upwards, guided by beta shouted up to her by Rainer and McArthur, without falling all the way to the belay chain.

van der Steen herself writes that this success came about almost "accidentally", but the mistake - if this is the right term - is a big one seeing that hers is one of hardest flashes of all times of a total dry route.

02/12/2014 - Angelika Rainer drytooling Kamasutra above Iseo
The video of Angelika Rainer on the "total dry" climb Kamasutra D13+ at Bus del Quai, Iseo, Italy.

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